This past weekend I installed a new cd player in my 76,as i was trying

to identify the correct wires for the power and grounds I shorted the

yellow power lead, I checked the fuse which was not blown, my

question is this, is there a fuse link involved for the radio and does it

also power the electric windows because they are not working either and If there is a fuse link where is it located

I have a '78, so I don't know how different the wiring may be, but the power windows operate on a circuit breaker mounted on the fuse panel (in a '78), and there is a power window relay which is tied through the 10 amp fuse circuit for the gauge lights/seat belt buzzer lamp and cruise control (again, on a '78).

In my car's owners manual, it shows the factory radio was wired through a 10 amp fuse in the same circuit as the rear window defogger, but the specs state it uses a 20 amp fuse.

If you have a power antenna, you also have a separate power lead for that from your factory radio.

Hope this is of some help.

My 75 had one fuse for dash lights and the radio only. The only reason I know this is because everytime I jump all over the gas,I end up blowing the radio fuse? Everyone tells me it must be a short but I have traced everything and tried everything I know of and still POW!Oh well someday there will be a answer.

You should have blown a fuse in the fuse box before a fuse-link. Gunslingers right, the windows are on a circuit breaker. Always check ALL of the fuses in the box. Just because it says "Radio" doesn't mean it is!! You may have well burned a fuse-link, but you need a wiring diagram for the 76 to determine is there is one that would kill the radio AND the windows if it blew. I'll see if I can check on that....

George, I assume your car originally had a 400 trans. You should still have the "kick-down" switch on the gas pedal. It is possible that the connector that used to go to the trans was cut, or has shorted out somewhere, and that is what is blowing the fuse when you get on it hard(full throttle). On my '74, the diagram shows the same fuse for the radio, and the cowl induction "air door" in the hood, which uses the same switch to operate it as the trans kickdown. Just an idea.... Adams' Apple38741.8671990741

Thanks Joel! So is this switch something I can remove? I only have one wire going to the new r4 trans.

Also under electrical a member has a posting asking for adivce with his windows. I was wondering if maybe you could take a read and help him out? You know and understand the electrical better than most. Thanks

gellisvette

Yes you can remove the switch because it was for the TH400 trans but as Joel said, it also opens the cowl door for 73-75 Vettes. I would first check the end of the orange wire (thats the wire that attached to the trans) to see if it is shorting out on something. That way you can keep the part for the air door working.

tonyb47
The power windows are on a seperate circut which draws power from the battery feed on the horn relay (red wire) and then to a 30amp circut breaker. From there it goes through the fire-wall (orange/blk wire) and to the power window relay.

However you may have a bad ground. The Black wire is the ground for the radio and the gages and lights in the center cluster. Check for power at the yellow wire to a good ground like the battery itself. I ran a seperate wire back to the bird cage for the cluster ground when I changed my radio. The PO didn't and I had lots of funny things happening until I did that.

Good luck

Hey, George, just as a test, unplug the switch, and see if that solves the fuse problem, first. If it does, just disconnect(cut) the one wire for the trans out of the switch connector.