crank fuse ok, fuse close to bat ok, new ign switch, new starter, new fuel/pump.

motor starts when I connect remote starter tool, it hase to somewhere in the wirings.

Will the anti theft system cause this? I know there is a relay and control module(cant locatec/m),found relay. Also notice power door locks dont work.

I tried the neutral safety swich jumper (just looped the connection)Idont know if that is correct, still no crank.

I tested for continuity at the starter harness conection to the starter and all wires showed contin. If the fusible link was a problem I should not get contin,correct?

I will test for voltage at soliniod key in start position, if none what could be the cause?

Need you guys and gals help on this one, please!!

 

Let us know what you found,

Denny

no voltage at starter solenoid with key in start position.

Yes the connector from harness to starter was corroded, cleaned and reconnected indiv, marked each wire.

Now a/c works,fuel pump works,radio works,wiper works.

Still no crank,power locks not working.

Neatrul switch is original, no crank in any position, I disconnected to wires and looped (jumpered) the connector on harness side, no crank.

Would the anti theft module or relay cause the no crank problem?

Thanks

This may be helpful as well.  From the service manual: " The starter interrupt relay is a normally closed relay in the starter solenoid circuit.  When energized by the controller, the relay contacs are opened thereby disabling the starter solenoid circuit (circuit 6). The starter interrupt relay is located near the controller and is plugged into the controller harness"

how do test relay(starter interupt) is there a continuity test between terminals? resistance?

I also tried jumping the starter inter harness still no crank. I tested contoinuity from s/sol to relay good, relay to ns/swithch good, solinoid to crankfuse at fuse block good,crank fuse to ecm conector good,ns/swich to ign switch good.

could the ecm cause a no crank problem?

 

thanks

When you acuate the relay you should hear it click, and then open/close the contacts.  The control circuit (lighter wires) should have power, then not when the relay is turned on and off.   If the control wires operate, but the relay/module does not click, it's bad.

 

For the time being you could jumper around the relay and the car would start.   It's a good test to ensure the rest of the vehicle is working properly.  But it's always better to find the problem and fix it properly.

I want to thank all of you for the valuable input,wiring diagram (asset).

Dropped the colum and looked at the ign.switch tested for voltage all good cleaned out the contacts and while the switch was unbolted to the colum I used a screw driver to to cycle the and when I moved it to the start she cranked yaya. I problably think that culprit is the rod from the key could have been binding against the housing and colum not fully set the switch to start position. I will looked at it in the morning since its about midnight here at the islands. Its good to just step back and leave the problem and return fresh a couple of hours later when the fustration builds...

Thanks again