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Re: No crank or click (15/25)
 9/22/18 4:46am
art-corvette
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danascar said:
I've had both problems on different cars over the years and I always find
that the heat soaked starter from headers will try weakly to start like a dead/failing battery but would start when cold, starter shield/cover solves that problem. A total no attempt to start, turn over, no click symptom was always a bad solenoid. Hammer on solenoid usually works for s hort time until solenoid fails completely.


i had exact the same with my 66 mustang. no cranking anymore when engine was hot, had to wait 20 min and car started again. the starter has worn out cause of the heat impact of the headers all those years... a heat shield didn't help anymore,  had to replace the starter and problem was solved.. 

arthur
Re: No crank or click (16/25)
 9/22/18 3:40pm
nosal1Gold Member
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You might consider using a Ford solenoid system which I have on my Vette/truck.The thing you have to be sure about is the grounding of the solenoid as we don't have an abundance of metal under hood in Vettes..I have this set up for 5 years on  "lame" starters on both my Vette and '72 C10 truck..With this set up the staret never has 12 volt to it until you try and start the vehicle,meaning the heavy gauge wire/solenoid is cold and not hot from headers..        nosa1       Sal C 




Re: No crank or click (17/25)
 9/26/18 4:13am
KentvetteUK
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Johnny605 said: Replace the starter/solenoid and the engine starts much. Still having the same problem, but need to wait a shorter time before the car starts again. I have order a heat shield and will install once it arrives.




Did you go right through all the electrical connections?  Ensure everything is clean, battery terminals included, earth straps etc.   A new starter and solenoid shouldn't give issues....

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Re: No crank or click (18/25)
 10/10/18 5:27am
StingrayHawaii
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Ellijay, GA - USA

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Had the same problem, have power but not even a click, replaced starter and solenoid and new wiring harness to starter. Same problem. Got a new anti theft relay and wile I was installing it I just unplugged it and tried to start the car. Acted just like my problem. Installed the new relay and it started right up. Unplugged the alarm module and will see if that was shutting off my relay! Update, relay was not the problem finally got it hot and same no click issue. Checked the purple wire going to starter and it is getting current when I hit the starter on the key. So it is the solenoid ! New starter and solenoid, with heat shield and wrapped the header pipe. Looks like the remote solenoid or high torque starter is the next step. Already replaced the wiring harness to the starter so I know that is all good.

|UPDATED|10/10/2018 2:27:56 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Re: No crank or click (19/25)
 9/28/18 12:48pm
73shark
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Before one starts to wholesale replace parts, one needs to check for voltage at the starter and solenoid, and at the other points upstream to see where they're losing voltage if it isn't present at the starter. Otherwise you're just throwing parts at the problem. This could be a very expensive way to troubleshoot a problem. One can get a digital VOM at Harbor Freight for less than $10. A small investment that will pay itself off many times over.

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Re: No crank or click (20/25)
 10/1/18 8:02am
vettejackLifetime Member
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This happened to me in my 1982. For weeks/months I would venture out for a drive, maybe stopping later on for a drink, or to fill up. All done, ready to go, boom...no start. Waited about 30 minutes every time, then it would start.
 
My mechanic and I figured out that with the '82 having it's original starter still in place, it may have just simply timed itself out and was that worn. We found that the body of the starter would heat up so bad (resting very close to the dual exhaust pipes) that the housing/casing would expand, which meant the armature actually would be pulled away from the housing/casing, hence, no grounding...which meant no starting until the mechanics of all this mumbo-jumbo would have to be allowed to cool.
 
In the end, I had a modern, hi-torque, starter installed, with a heat shield installed in/around the starter which increased the heat tolerance between the starter and the exhaust pipe.  This all occurred a little over 5 years ago...never a fail to start since then. 
 
On a completely different note...my '82 is for sale...gotta make room for the '77!








|UPDATED|10/1/2018 5:02:45 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Re: No crank or click (21/25)
 10/10/18 7:14am
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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StingrayHawaii said:  Checked the purple wire going to starter and it is getting current when I hit the starter on the key. So it is the solenoid ! New starter and solenoid, with heat shield and wrapped the header pipe. 



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Re: No crank or click (22/25)
 10/27/18 8:59pm
Johnny605
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Good new, finally was able to solve the problem. First I replace the starer/solenoid, wrap the exhaust pipe near the starter. When for a test drive and upon my return turn off the engine, waited for about 5 minutes, the engine started. Decided to waited additional 5 minutes to make sure the first time was not fluke. To my surprise, the engine started again. Looks like I can get on the road again without worrying if the car is going to start. Thanks to everyone for their input.
Re: No crank or click (23/25)
 11/3/18 5:11pm
danascar
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Waiting is not a good test. Waiting gives the starter time to cool. Test it immediately after shutting it off. If it still starts good you are golden.

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Re: No crank or click (24/25)
 11/9/18 12:11pm
StingrayHawaii
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Do it both ways, mine starts right up when hot but if it sets a few min the heat builds up and no start. New wires, new starter and solenoid and wrapped pipe with starter heat shield. Going to shield the wire and add additional exhaust wrap below the starter to see if that fixes it. I think the 82s and others with catalytic converters build a lot of heat right after they shut off and sit for a few min. Wait another 20-30 min and it starts right up!
Re: No crank or click (25/25)
 11/9/18 12:28pm
KentvetteUK
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Johnny605 said: Good new, finally was able to solve the problem. First I replace the starer/solenoid, wrap the exhaust pipe near the starter. When for a test drive and upon my return turn off the engine, waited for about 5 minutes, the engine started. Decided to waited additional 5 minutes to make sure the first time was not fluke. To my surprise, the engine started again. Looks like I can get on the road again without worrying if the car is going to start. Thanks to everyone for their input.

Glad you seem to have got the problem sorted Johnny.

The acid test will be to take the car on a decent run - 50 miles or so, then stop for fuel (that would be "gas" to you, "petrol" for me!).  The time to fill seems to be the perfect time required to let the problem manifest itself - ask me how I know!  If it re-starts when you're ready to leave the station, you've fixed it! 




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