"IF" you have headers, and no heat protection from the headers to starter, you need to add a shield to the starter. It's pretty common when hot engines with headers put to much heat on starter, and it doesn't work till cool. Big blocks are VERY susceptible to this .

Replace the starter/solenoid and the engine starts much. Still having the same problem, but need to wait a shorter time before the car starts again. I have order a heat shield and will install once it arrives.

|UPDATED|9/21/2018 6:49:11 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Hope the heat shield works. I also went to a high torque starter, that may also help.

i had exact the same with my 66 mustang. no cranking anymore when engine was hot, had to wait 20 min and car started again. the starter has worn out cause of the heat impact of the headers all those years... a heat shield didn't help anymore,  had to replace the starter and problem was solved.. 

You might consider using a Ford solenoid system which I have on my Vette/truck.The thing you have to be sure about is the grounding of the solenoid as we don't have an abundance of metal under hood in Vettes..I have this set up for 5 years on  "lame" starters on both my Vette and '72 C10 truck..With this set up the staret never has 12 volt to it until you try and start the vehicle,meaning the heavy gauge wire/solenoid is cold and not hot from headers..        nosa1       Sal C 

Did you go right through all the electrical connections?  Ensure everything is clean, battery terminals included, earth straps etc.   A new starter and solenoid shouldn't give issues....

Had the same problem, have power but not even a click, replaced starter and solenoid and new wiring harness to starter. Same problem. Got a new anti theft relay and wile I was installing it I just unplugged it and tried to start the car. Acted just like my problem. Installed the new relay and it started right up. Unplugged the alarm module and will see if that was shutting off my relay! Update, relay was not the problem finally got it hot and same no click issue. Checked the purple wire going to starter and it is getting current when I hit the starter on the key. So it is the solenoid ! New starter and solenoid, with heat shield and wrapped the header pipe. Looks like the remote solenoid or high torque starter is the next step. Already replaced the wiring harness to the starter so I know that is all good.

|UPDATED|10/10/2018 2:27:56 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Before one starts to wholesale replace parts, one needs to check for voltage at the starter and solenoid, and at the other points upstream to see where they're losing voltage if it isn't present at the starter. Otherwise you're just throwing parts at the problem. This could be a very expensive way to troubleshoot a problem. One can get a digital VOM at Harbor Freight for less than $10. A small investment that will pay itself off many times over.

This happened to me in my 1982. For weeks/months I would venture out for a drive, maybe stopping later on for a drink, or to fill up. All done, ready to go, boom...no start. Waited about 30 minutes every time, then it would start.







|UPDATED|10/1/2018 5:02:45 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|