Topic: No Start - nothing
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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Former Member
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Middle Island, NY - USA
Joined: 8/25/2009
Posts: 28
Vette(s): 1974 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray Coupe
mille miglia red - black interior
1 of 12,346 4-spds. of 37,503 '74 production
production date: 12-'73
L48 350 4 bbl. V8 - dual exhaust
M20 4-spd. manual
a/c, p/b, p/s, am/fm. rear def.
It began several months ago-
'74Shark 2010-11-02 11:15:43
turn key, nothing then second try ok. Now it's gortten worse where it starts only rarely if at all. been push starting...just replaced starter, checked all grounds, interlock (74) has been bypassed under hood but just replaced relay behind console. nothin.

I'm thinkin ignition switch or clutch switch...any thoughts?

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load test the hot wire to the starter.If it shows good, see if you get voltage to the start relay wire and work your way back till you do.don't just replace parts, be a tech and work it thru you will have it and be able to say I found the problem myself.(with the help from your friends at C 3) 

Former Member
Send PM
Middle Island, NY - USA
Joined: 8/25/2009
Posts: 28
Vette(s): 1974 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray Coupe
mille miglia red - black interior
1 of 12,346 4-spds. of 37,503 '74 production
production date: 12-'73
L48 350 4 bbl. V8 - dual exhaust
M20 4-spd. manual
a/c, p/b, p/s, am/fm. rear def.
I have no clue how to do that. Can you walk me through it, or else 110 (1 hr) to find it which is ok.
you don't think its the ignition switch?

Hey wildman how goes it..doesn't sound like you are having a good day..so you hit the key and nothing happens or do you at least get a radio or lights or maybe even a mild click sound..well start at the battery and work your way to the starter..make sure the connection at the battery is really good..if it has the side terminal connection make sure that it is clean and don't try to over tighten it..you can strip them out very easy..get new bolts if need be..have the battery checked and maybe the alternator as well..ok now we go to the starter..if you have a test light clip the ground side to the block and put the point on the little wire on the starter that actuates the solenoid..attempt to start the car as usual and see if it lights up..if it doesn't then you have a control problem..ie..clutch or other switch or keyed problem..if it does you got a crap starter or a bad battery ground or power wire..do this and let me know how it goes..110 an hour is a lot so let's fix this thing!
Rich
Rich

My first parade at Carlisle 2010
Ok I am going out on a limb here but only because I had it happen to me.
I would get intermittent starting issues like yours. After a lot of testing The battery had a loose post going into it. You could wiggle it ever so slightly and the car would not start. The cables were tight but the part going into the battery was loose. New battery and no more problems.


Moderator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Use a test light, or preferably a volt meter on the PURPLE wire at the starter solenoid. It will be the smaller terminal closest to the engine block. Turn the key to "Start" and see if the test light lights up, or you get at least 11 volts on a voltmeter. If not, then you have either a break in the wire from the ignition switch, or a fault with the neutral safety switch(clutch switch).
The starter interlock can be over-ridden by unplugging the seat switches under the seats, but you have dis-abled your's anyway.
The clutch switch can be tested with a test light/volt meter, also. You should have 12v at one of the two terminals with the key on. With the clutch depressed, you should have 12v on both terminals. If you don't have 12v one at least one of the terminals of the clutch switch, you may have an ignition switch issue.
Make sure your floor mats(if you have them) are not bunched up under the clutch pedal, keeping it from going all the way down.
Adams' Apple 2010-11-03 06:40:31
The starter interlock can be over-ridden by unplugging the seat switches under the seats, but you have dis-abled your's anyway.
The clutch switch can be tested with a test light/volt meter, also. You should have 12v at one of the two terminals with the key on. With the clutch depressed, you should have 12v on both terminals. If you don't have 12v one at least one of the terminals of the clutch switch, you may have an ignition switch issue.
Make sure your floor mats(if you have them) are not bunched up under the clutch pedal, keeping it from going all the way down.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Former Member
Send PM
Middle Island, NY - USA
Joined: 8/25/2009
Posts: 28
Vette(s): 1974 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray Coupe
mille miglia red - black interior
1 of 12,346 4-spds. of 37,503 '74 production
production date: 12-'73
L48 350 4 bbl. V8 - dual exhaust
M20 4-spd. manual
a/c, p/b, p/s, am/fm. rear def.
Guys the starter was just replaced and all connections and grounds were checked.
My original starter was not at fault. the car has started in gear since I bought it in Jan. Now I looked at the clutch switch and a rod is hanging. the interlock is diabled. It wasn't disabled with the seat connections dissconnected because one day (before the current problem) the buzzer sounded, seat belt light was on and no start. I was told to bypass the interlock by using a jumper wire to the green and purple wires at the remote start switch connector. I'm assuming the interlock has been bypassed. the ongoing no start started a couple of months ago as an occasional no start. Now it starts one a week. car has been starting in gear for 10 months (the clutch switch is dissconnected of misadjusted) can it now be causing a no start?
I think it's the ignition switch or a wire or link..


Moderator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
The procedure for starting the car is very specific. Sit down, fasten seat belt, then crank. The relay under the hood really has nothing to do with whether or not the interlock is disabled. It's only purpose is to allow starting the car one time if the interlock has a malfunction.
The starter interlock logic module is in the rear compartment, driver side, in the very back, under the carpet. Unplug that module, and see what happens.
You say your clutch safety switch rod is hanging...that's a problem. That switch has to make contact in order for the ignition switch voltage to get to the starter solenoid. I would suggest jumpering the two wires at the clutch switch, and give that a try. IF that corrects the starting problem, either repair the switch/rod issue, or leave the jumper in until you have time to do it.
[quote='74Shark]It wasn't disabled with the seat connections dissconnected because one day (before the current problem) the buzzer sounded, seat belt light was on and no start...[/quote]
IF this is true, then you have a wiring issue with the seat switch wiring shorted together somewhere, OR the Interlock Logic Module is fried. Un-plugging the interlock logic module will completely disable the system, and allow the car to start "normally".
Adams' Apple 2010-11-03 19:28:30
The starter interlock logic module is in the rear compartment, driver side, in the very back, under the carpet. Unplug that module, and see what happens.
You say your clutch safety switch rod is hanging...that's a problem. That switch has to make contact in order for the ignition switch voltage to get to the starter solenoid. I would suggest jumpering the two wires at the clutch switch, and give that a try. IF that corrects the starting problem, either repair the switch/rod issue, or leave the jumper in until you have time to do it.
[quote='74Shark]It wasn't disabled with the seat connections dissconnected because one day (before the current problem) the buzzer sounded, seat belt light was on and no start...[/quote]
IF this is true, then you have a wiring issue with the seat switch wiring shorted together somewhere, OR the Interlock Logic Module is fried. Un-plugging the interlock logic module will completely disable the system, and allow the car to start "normally".
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Former Member
Send PM
Middle Island, NY - USA
Joined: 8/25/2009
Posts: 28
Vette(s): 1974 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray Coupe
mille miglia red - black interior
1 of 12,346 4-spds. of 37,503 '74 production
production date: 12-'73
L48 350 4 bbl. V8 - dual exhaust
M20 4-spd. manual
a/c, p/b, p/s, am/fm. rear def.
Sounds good. The rod issue might be it as I'm not sure when it dissconnected. I was told when you put a jumper wire in the remote start it disables the interlock yes?

Former Member
Send PM
Middle Island, NY - USA
Joined: 8/25/2009
Posts: 28
Vette(s): 1974 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray Coupe
mille miglia red - black interior
1 of 12,346 4-spds. of 37,503 '74 production
production date: 12-'73
L48 350 4 bbl. V8 - dual exhaust
M20 4-spd. manual
a/c, p/b, p/s, am/fm. rear def.
Can you please explain how to disable the clutch switch?

in Forum: C3 Electrical
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