Ok update time.....just a bit closer to insanity.

I have replaced the dash harness and am still having the same problem of blowing the ctsy lamp fuse. However, this past week I plugged in the new lock swithces and didnt have the passenger side all the way in the plug end and was able to get the locks on the drivers side to unlock only. As soon as I seated the switch on the passenger side all the way in, the fuse blew AGAIN.....ARGHHHH!!!!

Any help here would be greatly appreciated

When I replaced the passenger lock switch I had a similar problem ( the fuse did not blow). I could only lock the doors from the driver’s side. When I ohm checked the wires from the drivers side I was missing a ground. As soon as I seated the connector on the passenger’s door all was fine. If my car was blowing the fuse I would do the following:

1. Remove both passenger and driver’s interior door panels.
2. Remove the door lock switch from each panel and mark them so I would know which switch was on which door.
3. Measure and record the voltage on all five wires in each door. Only the orange wire in both doors should have +12 volt, all others should be 0.0 volts (+-)0.5 volt. If any of the wires, other than the orange one, have voltage on them then you have a short some place in the harness. If all are OK proceed to step 4.
4. Plug the switch from the driver’s door back into the drivers door.
5. Measure and record the voltage on all five wires in the passenger door. Only the orange wire should have +12 volts. If any of the wires, other than the orange one, have voltage on them then you have a defective switch.. If all are OK proceed to step 6,
6. Remove the door lock fuse.
7. Plug the switch from the passenger’s door back into the passenger’ door.
8. Measure the resistance between the orange wire and each of the other 4 wires in the passengers. Door. They should measure open.

Good luck

I rememeber working with the power locks on my 81,
I'm always trying to save a buck, I rebuilt the lock actuators and both switches were bad, I blew several fuses messing with it, I didn't care for the price the vette parts house near me wanted for the switches so I went to my local pep boys/discount auto parts and in the section of parts called "help" they sell a GM single power window switch it has the 5 poles like the door lock switchs on vettes, the bezel that comes on it is plain where the vette bezel has "lock" printed on it so if you are purist you switch bezels it's just clipped on the switch, I bought two of these for far less than vette parts houses get for one and my door locks work beautful now.
Cheers, T.

Would you guys believe that after 4 months of hair pulling I finally figured out my door lock problem....the #$@*ing switches I bought were bad(four total, who would have thought).....I'm so mad and so relieved at the same time.
Barring no further disasters, I'm starting to reassemble my vette. Thanks to all for your input and help.

Dan