Topic: Rewiring a 68 corvette.
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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I'm hoping someone can give me an idea what it would cost to rewire a 68 vette. I know there's no other way but to do it. I've seen the cost of the wire harness, what would be a reasonable cost for labor to rewire a 68 vette? I was trying to start it up when I heard a pop. Seen some smoke from the wires.
Lucky It's still here and not engulfed in flames. 


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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
The entire car, or just the front(engine) harness? Either way, it ain't cheap! Lottsa time involved, unless the car is completely stripped of the interior. I'd be inclined to find out WHERE the wire harness is damaged first, and go from there. Might be a simple fix, might be a major headache, ya never know without looking.

Joel Adams
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
From talking to someone about what had happen. He said it sounds like the fuse from the ignition to the battery. He also said it has to grounded some how. I don't have any power for the interior or headlights lights. I checked the battery first it has power. I don't leave the battery hooked up because of the horror stories of these catching on fire. I also seen some wires that are a little melted connected to the starter. These wires also go to the firewall and into the cockpit.
I rewired my 68 around 6 yrs ago because of bubba fixes & some of the wires melted at the firewall. It took me approx 60+ hours, but I soldered each connection & heat shrinked everything. Also install a new fuse block because a 68 doesn't allow you to attach many accessories. I also re routed the wires under the dash that normally run across the firewall in the engine compartment & attached a big grounding block under the dash that connects to the frame in 2 locations. Bad grounds are a big problem on these cars. It is very doable you just have to take your time ...one wire at a time.
I'm not sure I'd be able to take the dash apart around the steering wheel without damaging the speedometer and tact. The other thing, I'm thinking about is will I be able to put that section back together. I've tried in the passed to take that section apart but couldn't figure how to pull that apart without cracking anything. I have taken the other side apart (radio, air condition vent, and console and passenger side) of the dash and put it back together. Had seen pictures on how to take that apart, But haven't seen much on the driver side. Thanks for your input.

If you drop the steering column it comes apart easily, take the top dash off first. It is somewhat more flexible in warmer weather. Putting all the lights back in & getting everything together is not easy. So I installed LED lights & hooked everything up through a singe wiring harness. Takes a little extra time but it goes back together much easier.
Alan
I've never taken apart a steering column before from a dash. Do you know if there is any site where I can see it step by step. Again thanks for all your help.

You don't take it a part you just drop it. Look under the column & there are 3 or 4 bolts I forget , but take them out & the column will drop. I think on the 68 there are 2 on either side of the column towards the steering wheel & one on the passenger side towards the firewall. If that isn't enough take the bolts out of the plate on the firewall ( 4 bolts) & it'll drop more. the steering wheel will be resting on the seat & you'll have all the room you need. The hardest thing is there's just not to much room in these cars so being flexible is important. I replaced mine with a flaming river tilt column many years ago, one of the best things I did to the car.
I appreciate all the information that you gave me. The steering column doesn't unhook after I let it down on the seat? Is the steering column hard to put back together after I'm done. Any other things should I be aware of? I know I have no problem with the dash from the center console to the passenger door. I guess if I seen how the dash comes apart on the driver side I wouldn't be that nervous. Again I want to thank you for your input. I've tried doing other stuff with great results. As everyone have call him, BUBBA has worked on my wires too. I have been putting it off. So I have to replace the wires. I had extra wires for the speakers in the back, Extra wires to the non factory radio laying in the back. I had bare wires in the console . I taught I had most of it solved. then I current Problem.... Thanks Alan

When you lower the steering column you are doing just that ..not taking it out so it's easy to just lift it up & reattach the bolts. The hardest part will be getting all the dash lights in & making sure they stay in. They are color coded but a piece of masking tape on each bulb that is labeled sure helps . I modified my dash,speedo, tach & center gauges many yrs ago to digital gauges many yrs ago. In my 73 which is almost exactly the same I switched all the dash lights over to LED & a single plug harness. This makes putting everything back together pretty easy plus all the lights work all the time & draw hardly any current( I used red LED's).
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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