Topic: Stalling when lights are on
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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You think? I was told you could fry some of that old circuitry if you get one with too much juice.
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Not supposed to if the regulator is working right,
I ran a 90 amp on my 66,
granted after about 110 amps you might want to use a higher gauge wire from the alternator to the starter.
Cheers, T.
I ran a 90 amp on my 66,
granted after about 110 amps you might want to use a higher gauge wire from the alternator to the starter.
Cheers, T.
The wire that I found was very obvious. It was about 10-12 gauge, one of the thicker wires, as it is a main wire. If you look just under your brake reseviour, you should see a wire bundle. Also, on my 75, there is additional wiring running to the alarm switch. This is how I found it. I could tell that it had been repaired before from the electrical tape wrapped around it. I removed the tape, cleaned the wiring, cut away all the corrosion and soldered new wiring in place. You don't have much room. After repairing it, I haven't had any problems since. Before, sometimes when I turned my lights on, the car would die, and I would not have any power for a minute or so. Whenever this happened a couple times and I found the culprit, I could feel the hot really hot from where the bad connection was, caused from the corrosion (resistance in the wire). Hope you find your problem. Keep us informed what you find and what you did to fix it. 

1975/L48/Coupe/4 Speed(1 of 1057)/Headers/true duals/aluminum intake/holley 750/MSD ignition/roller rockers/
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You will not have any problems with a stronger alt. The regulator only allows charging for what is needed. If you need 30 you get 30 from either unit. The problem is when it too small. The strong one is no problem.
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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