I've just developed one of those problems out of nowhere. The car has been running perfectly. I drove it about 20 miles - got it good and hot - stopped and about 3 hours later, when it was well cooled off, it would not start. The symptoms were odd - when I turned the key, all lights on the dash panel came on but there was nothing going to the starter. Not even a click and the lights did not dim. I put a new battery in about 6 months ago so it's not a battery problem. I tried working the clutch to see if the switch was not connecting, but nothing happened.

We put a set of juper cables on it and it started. Funny thing is I don't think the jump had anything to do with getting it to start. It was as if just making the connection caused something to "connect" and it fired right off.

The next day I drove it again and when I shut it off it would not start about 15 minutes later. It sat for about 3 hours and I tried it again and it fired right off like there was never a problem.

Any ideas?
Jim

My guess is the starter solonoid is breaking down with heat. Odd but they can do that. If you can duplicate the problem with the car on a ramp or lift, or if you can reach, use a volt meter or test light on the "s" terminal of the starter. It has the purple wire on many. Some cars may have a different color, depending on year.

Have someone turn the key. If the terminal becomes hot, but the starter won't turn, the problem is the solonoid. If the wire does not become hot, go to the clutch switch, and check there. After that go back to the ignition switch.

If all of these are good, look for the grounds from the engine to the battery and frame.

I agree with Ken. My son had the same problem with his 61 Chevy pick up. Jump start or even for some unknown reason, after cleaning the cables it would start. Once the starter was changed, the problem disappeared. Saved me a lot of "Dad come fix my truck " calls.

Reid '72 T-top

Ken:

I checked all the battery connections and they are tight. I next got under the car and removed the wires from the large post on the solenoid, cleaned them and retightened them. The small terminal at the bottom of the solenoid has a small guage wire on it but I can't tell what color it is. It looks clean and tight.

I drove it again and 15 minutes later it would not start. I got back underneath and with someone depressing the clutch and turning the key on. I put a voltmeter on both of these posts on the solenoid and grounded on the frame and engine. Both showed 12 volts with the key on.

There was no clicking or any other sound underneath at the solenoid or starter. One time when the key was on for several seconds, something up above started to click and it sounded like an emergency flasher unit clicking but I have no idea what it was. It sounded like it was above me near the coil or the dash panel.

Does this eliminate the clutch switch as a problem since there was voltage at the solenoid? How about the ignition switch?

What to do next???

Thanks,
Jim

I had the same problem on my 68 BB. I found out that the origional GM starters act funny when they get hot ,which is a C3 problem. I replaced it with a CRV Protorque Starter & haven't had a problem since. These starters can handle the heat.
Good Luck
Alan

or you can put a heat shield on the starter...

you can macgyver one out of a ten pound coffee can

With power to both the large and small terminals, the starter is the culprit. It's breaking down hot. Odd but true. You can put a heat sheild on the starter to help prevent the problem. It's worse with headers, more heat on the starter.
As bad as it's acting, you will likely need to replace the starter, and the heat sheild will help prevent a repeat performance.

TO ALL WHO REPLIED TO THIS THREAD ...

Well, it was the starter/solenoid. I had it rebuilt today and after driving it and getting it heated up, it restarted 15 minutes later. So far so good.

Thanks to all!!!!

Iv'e been an aviation mechanic for over 35 years and have found many problems with electrical systems to be the voltmeter. When you are checking an electrical system, use a test light or a 12 volt bulb with a couple wires soldered on the terminals. Many times the meter will read voltage, but the light won't light up at all.

This is due to the resistance of the meter is far below the light bulb. Simply stated, you will read voltage on the meter, but not have any current to light a bulb. Without the current, the solenoid will not engage at all.

I have about four test lights in the garage, and carry an extra in the truck and on my bike. They NEVER lie about power when you are testing a circuit.

Nick

Very true, a volt meter won't show lack or supply of amperage.
For lighting and similar circuits, I use a test light. For any computer related circuits, use a 10m Ohm meter. But until you get to 81, computers are not an issue on our C3s.

But a properly used volt meter can help locate resistance points, which is what makes the light not come on. It's a way to locate the problem in an active circuit.

And for the same reasons, a test light may show power, but still not have enough power to a high current circuit, such as a starter. But the light will dim in this case if it's after the resistance.

Bottom line, I use a test light most of the time on non-electronic circuits.

|UPDATED|9/3/2004 7:01:51 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|