My 75 wil not start when it is hot! I just got Her out of storage (Canada Eh) and she runs great except for this! Last year I had a friend look at it for the same problem and he repaired a ground wire to the engine that fixed the problem. I checked this out and the wiring seems fine and all the fuses are good. I tried checking the other end of this green wire, but it is all taped up, joins many more wires, and I am uncertain as to where it goes! The battery is holding a charge after a drive (27.4)and the gauge is normal (0) no + or -. Any suggestions as to what I should check out? Thanks for your ideas!!
Gerry

"my car wont start" is a little vague..

do you mean the starter wont turn over ??

or

starter turns, engine wont fire..

More info would certainly be very helpful. You should at least check to see if you are getting spark by holding one of the ignition wires near a ground so you can observe if spark is present. Could have a thermal breakdown occuring in the ignition module if there is no spark. Be sure to use the heat transfer compound on the back (mounting surface) of the module if you are going to replace it.

Sorry for not supplying enough info! After going for a drive and the car runs great I shut her off, when I attempt to restart the starter engages for a split second, just enough to let you know that it tried, then nothing. I parked the car last nite and when I tried to restart today, the engine turned over several times, not very fast, but there just did not seem to be enough juice to start her. Before I attempted to start her the battery state was 27.1. Please let me know anything else you may need to help determine the problem! Thanks!!
Gerry

Sounds like to me your starter is shot. If it will turn over cold, but not hot would be the best clue. Just my 2 penneys.

Also, clean your battery terminals and connector ends. May not solve the problem, but it can help.

John

|UPDATED|5/31/2004 10:34:49 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Sounds like the starter to me as well. You could take it apart and check the condition of things inside, like bearings, commutator, and brushes. If it's the original it certainly doesn't owe you much.

ditto on diagnoses

if it is the original starter.. you may have a place in your area that rebuilds alternators/starters.

rebuilding isnt very popular anymore since you can goto "crap boys" or "auto trash" and get one for 30$

but there is a shop here (Hot Springs Alternator & Starter) whose primary business is rebuilding parts for deisel engines.. (a starter for an 18 wheeler or a D11 Dozer costs quite a bit more than 30$) and they also will rebuild car starters and alternators (and any other electric motor)...

this would let you keep your car original..

Put a volt meter on the battery. Battery voltage should be at least 12.4 volts. 12.6 is fully chargerd. Over that is just surface charge.

Then try to start the car. If it does not start hold the key on for a few seconds and get a good voltage reading.

If the voltage only drops to 11. or stays higher, the start circuit is working and the starter is not responding. Did the starter click? If so this could be the solenoid, which is part of the starter but can be serviced alone.

If it did not click you could have a poor connection.

If the battery voltage dropped a lot either the battery is bad, or the starter is drawing way too much current, and the starter is bad. If you connect jumper cables and it starts, blame the battery. If it does not, blame the starter.

Bad connections can be found with a a volt meter and a voltage drop test. Put one lead of the volt meter on one side of any connection or cable you choose. Put the other lead on the other side/end. Crank the engine. Voltage should be less than 0.2 volts. Any reading 0.2 or over is a problem connection or bad cable/wire. Ideally it should read 0. Any connection in the car, and circuit, can be checked the same way. The circiut must be in operation to check it.

From what you have said I would guess a starter at this point. But without more testing, it's a guess.

If you use an inductive amp meter you can measure the amp to the starter. It should be around 200 or less.
High compression engines may be as much as 300 amps.

another thing that is easy to do.. and you should do just for piece of mind..

is goto to a parts store and have them load test your battery.. i had similar symptoms to what your saying just last week.. (tough starting, wouldnt start hot had to wait 30 minutes..)

battery voltage checked out at no load.. inductive amp meter showed low current during start though.. I went to autozone and had them run a load test on batt and check alt just for fun..

changed batt.. havent had the problem since.

if you are SURE it isnt battery look starter.. but BE SURE..