Everyone of us with a C3 Vette needs to seriously look at our electrical systems for what they really are. They have many strengths along with many weaknesses as most of us have learned.Adding a high output alternator does nothing to help, especially the one-wire type. If you want to understand what you can do to upgrade your electrical system,get brighter headlights,easier starting and longer battery life- go to www.madelectrical.com. Mark Hamilton of M.A.D. Electrical is fantastic, and his knowledge of our cars is endless. His company has products to upgrade our systems without big expense, and are easy for mosr anyone to do.Please look him up, and tell him Doug Wild (DWILD1) says "hi" and thanks again for all the help.

|UPDATED|11/2/2002 11:54:36 AM|/UPDATED|

THANKS FOR THE INFO I WAS WONDERING WHAT I COULD DO TO HELP OUT THE ELE. SYSTEM. THANKS AGAIN

After reading stuff on the website I'm thinking about getting two of the relay kits for the lights. Has anybody here done that and how'd it turn out?

The latest model cars that they mention having these problems are '71s and '72s. That would apply to a lot of poeple here, but I was wondering how many of these problems apply to cars from '73 - '82.

I did the two relays with the CN1 connecting block undre the hood. Headlights are brighter. An unseen big advantage to doing this is that the light swtch now no longer carries the voltage from alternator to starter solenoid, on to the fuse box,passes through one of the worst type fuse made,they can develope into a nasty situation known as thermal break through, not good. the circuit continues on from the fuse panel, to the switch and high voltage attempting to pass and control, lot's of damaging heat is given foo and/or absorbed by this switch. Using the relays, now all the switch does is send a small triger signal to the relays to do their stuff. It all makes too much sense and is easy and fun to do. My next phase is to install a remote starter solenoid in the batterry box next to the cable. This will have the heavy battery cable from battery to starter dead, except when starter switch is engaged. All the other wiring that was bussed at the starter will now be brought up out of the extreme heat environment to the CN1 connecting blck. This allows for remote sensing for the alternator (read about it at www.madelectrical.com) Running a 10 gauge to the battery instead of using the factory 2 gauge will add life to the battery by allowing the natural resistance in the cable to slow down the charge rate, prolonging the life of the battery. Any who would like some epix of my work, let me know. It's easy to do, just remember cut crimp, solder, heat shrink tubing and you have a lot of times, better than factory.