i think the neutral switch is right where you think, above the clutch pedal.... that could pose an issue for getting the starter in motion, if its "non-co-opertive"... so the battery did check out?...

Check for power to the "s" terminal at the starter when trying to start it.   This is the small terminal closer to the engine block.  If it has power when turning the key to start, you have a starter or connection problem at the starter or cable.   If you do not have power there,  use a jumper to contact that terminal to the battery terminal right next to and above it.  The car should crank.  If not, back to cables and connections, or starter.

Not to veer off in a different direction but...

   

  Kevin: I put a PROCOMP ELECTRONICS HEI PC-9000 in this past June and have only put a couple hundred miles on the car since then. About 140 miles before the new headers and that's when it cut off or lost power for a split second 2 or 3 times. Every time was within 10 minutes after starting the engine and leaving my house. I drove her 50 miles home after having the new exhaust pipes and mufflers installed and she never lost power at all. Saturday I drove 5.5 miles over to my sons house, one hour later I tried to start it up to leave and she wouldn't start. I thought that the headers would lower the temp. under the hood compared to cast iron "Ramhorns". Am I wrong there, I know they sure cool down faster? Thanks for the question, I was thinking that something might be wrong with the dist. module because the Tach drops to "0" instantly when she looses power. Have you changed out your module?

First, if you do jump the starter, be SURE the trans is in NEUTRAL!! Don't want no surprises!
The "S" terminal should have battery voltage when the key is in the "Start" position. You want to measure the voltage from a good ground, such as the engine block, or the starter bolts, to the "S" terminal.
One quick test of the clutch safety switch is to watch the brightness of the dash lights. With the key on, turn the key to "Start" with the clutch UP. Then with the key still turned to Start, mash the clutch DOWN...if you see a change in the brightness of the dash lights when the clutch nears the floor, then the clutch switch is working. Doesn't hurt to check it with a voltmeter, too, but this is just a quick way to check it.

You say the car died...do you mean it died while it was running, and it hasn't started since, or, did you turn it off, and now it won't re-start? Does it simply not crank, or does it crank, but not start up?

From your first post, it really sounds like you have a bad battery cable/connection.

   Thanks Joel, I will check it out today. To answer your question, she wouldn't start after setting for about an hour at my son's house. She started fine here at home, I drove 5.5 miles to his house stayed about an hour, came out to leave and there was nothing, not even a "click" out of the solenoid when I turned the key to start.

Hey Chuck,

I put my money on a ground wire. Does it have power to anything or is it completely dead? (no lights, no radio, zero?)

If so ... check your ground wire from the battery to the crossmember. (they corrode, split open, break off, because they are very seldom looked at.

Another thought might be the fusible link. It could be getting hot and breaking down.

I agree about the ground. Are you sure you got the frame to motor ground installed? With headers, it's kinda in the way, at least on my black79. Had to move it to the front of the motor. Here's where it should be but may have been moved. mkapp78792008-09-09 15:03:27