The linkage does move. No I did not install the origf ign sswitch on the colum I used a screw driver to slide the slot. I have tried to do the colum in other positions as well to no avail. So where else can I start to trace this out at. Should I begin by pulling seats and opening up access to all wireing at the console? What to trace and where?

At this point, I'd say let's find out if there is voltage getting to the starter solenoid with the key in the "crank" position. You can do this with either a test light, or a multi-meter. You want to check the burple wire on the solenoid...the terminal closest to the engine block. With the key in the "crank" position, you should see battery voltage on that wire. If not, then it should be checked at the ign switch. I don't have a wiringdiagran handy, but you would want to test the circuit for the starter there. If there is voltage at the switch in "crank" position, then you may have a problem ith the harness pass-thu on the firewall, which is basically where the fuse-box bolts up, and the harness goes from inside to the engine side. I've seen MANY electrical issues with this connection...it does get corroded, due to the location under the brake booster.

[QUOTE=gs77vet]Check your in-line fuses, around the starter. If one is blown you should have them all replaced, 3 I believe, I had someone else replace mine. If it is an in line fuse you should have no power, door light, dash lights, etc. good luck, Gene[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]At this point, I'd say let's find out if there is voltage getting to the starter solenoid with the key in the "crank" position. You can do this with either a test light, or a multi-meter. You want to check the burple wire on the solenoid...the terminal closest to the engine block. With the key in the "crank" position, you should see battery voltage on that wire. If not, then it should be checked at the ign switch. I don't have a wiringdiagran handy, but you would want to test the circuit for the starter there. If there is voltage at the switch in "crank" position, then you may have a problem ith the harness pass-thu on the firewall, which is basically where the fuse-box bolts up, and the harness goes from inside to the engine side. I've seen MANY electrical issues with this connection...it does get corroded, due to the location under the brake booster. [/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=gs77vet]It only takes one of the in-line fuses to blow to cause a complete power shutdown. Again if it is just one blown  I would replace all 3 of them.  Gene[/QUOTE]

Just a thought: Whwn I replaced my steering column, the car won't start.  Even after moving the ignition switch that is on the column like Joel stated, the car won't start.  We had to elongate the holes on the switch in order for the switch to be moved further to make contact and start the car. 

The NSS is on the side of the shifter, in the console. That would certainly keep it from cranking. It would be strange if it was the cause of the problem, since it didn't exist before the column work, but...stranger things have happened. The power from the ign switch runs thru the NSS before going to the starter solenoid, so it could well be the problem.

I just went back and read the first post...you had the console loose to get the radio out...perhaps you moved the wiring for the NSS enough to create a loose connection, or maybe even ran a screw thru a wire in there somewhere...just a thought...
Adams' Apple2009-06-02 20:21:05