Topic: 1977 Proportioning Valve
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
Already a Member?
Click Here to Login
Not yet a Member?
Click Here to Register for Free!
yup - replaced the rubber with SS. The primary hard lines were in good shape, but I may replace with SS just for appearance - but the steel ones are still good. It really helped the feel to go with SS flex lines instead of rubber and it gives you a lot of confidence not having 30 year old rubber holding your brake system together.
C3: 1979 Corvette Coupe, Auto, L-48, Red/Doeskin (my wife's fave);
C4s: 1986 C4 coupe (SCCA road race car), satin black, 4+3, Z51 package, L-98; & 1993 C4 coupe, white, 6-speed, LT-1.
SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)
Lifetime Member
The filter that was in the vacuum line does not affect the brake operation at all if it's working properly.
kstyer 2007-11-12 18:39:56
It is there as a moisture filter. In the 70's GM found moisture was getting through the vacuum line and into the power booster. The moisture would freeze on a cold day, and the driver would come out and step on the pedal and the pedal would not move. After the car ran awhile, the heat from the engine would warm the booster, melt the ice, and the brakes would work again.
I installed a LOT of them as a mfg recall. Granted, if they went bad or clogged it really made the brake operation suffer.
The rough point for bleeding si the line to the right rear, where it crosses the back of the frame. The line goes up, and back down, and creates an air pocket. It can make you nuts getting it out. Proper bleeding or a power bleeder will cure the problem. Follow Joels procedure.
If you do pump the brakes, pump gently. A solid thump causes the air bubbles to break up into tiny bubbles, and then they won't come out until they recollect and form larger bubbles again.
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)