Topic: '65-68 Front Wheel Hub assembly
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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Lifetime MemberLa Quinta, CA - USA
Joined: 3/19/2008
Posts: 53
Vette(s): 1968 convertible, small block, auto, pw, pb, ps, air, 3rd owner CA black plate
I am hoping someone can set me on the right track here. Tearing down to fix a leaking front brake caliper I found an outer wheel bearing problem. The race can be spun in the wheel hub assembly. I popped the race out and a micrometer shows the correct size outer wheel bearing was installed (outer diameter 1.781), so I assume this must mean that the hub is worn.
The front wheel hub's are not available new so I need to find one used that is in good condition. What I would like to know is what a hub tolerance was when new. Before I purchase a used part it would be nice to know how close it is to original specifications. Does anyone have the original bearing tolerances for 65-68 hub assemblies, or know where I can get it?
Another thought would be to bore the hub assembly and move to an over size race... anyone with experience pursuing that option? Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Bob
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Ive never seen bearing race to hub tolerance' anywhere, its a interference fit, can't be much tighter than the race o.d., I've found through the years that if you have to drive the race out of the hub with a brass drift and a 5 pounder and maybe smacking your hand from a glancing blow along the way 
that the hub should be ok, BTW, I always hold the drift with vise grips now.
,
Lifetime MemberLa Quinta, CA - USA
Joined: 3/19/2008
Posts: 53
Vette(s): 1968 convertible, small block, auto, pw, pb, ps, air, 3rd owner CA black plate
LOL! I guess I just dont't have enough interference in the fit anymore...I hate it when that happens!
Lifetime MemberElma, WA - USA
Joined: 6/25/2007
Posts: 692
Vette(s): Red 1973 Convertible.
L-48 Auto
#'s matching
Red 1970 LT-1
Convertible
#'s matching
Check with Larry at Corvette Specialties as he had a good rebuilt one for my 70.
what you might try before you get another hub is take a center punch and peen the sides of the race seat wall on the hub all around several times, maybe that will get the seat wall to grow enough so the race fits tighter in the hub, if not you had to get one anyway.
Lifetime MemberLa Quinta, CA - USA
Joined: 3/19/2008
Posts: 53
Vette(s): 1968 convertible, small block, auto, pw, pb, ps, air, 3rd owner CA black plate
Thanks for the suggestions T-mans and Anips.
After additional research, some more facts about wheel hubs: the wheel hub design on my '68 was built from '65 to '68. '69 and after a larger spindle was used and bearings are different. '63 and 64 will work on '65 thru '68 as bearings and hub design are the same, only difference was the rotors were not riveted on in the earlier years. So these additional years will work, but not if you are running for points... This info from Muskegon Brake, Muskegon MI, a guy there named Andrew was very helpful.
I agree with Anips, To use a pointed punch all the way around the inner hub (5 or 6 dimples) will work fine. When I did mechanic work years ago, we did this quite often. It works great! This will work for years, but if ya want to replace, it will get ya back on the road till ya find a replacement.
Later,
Lifetime MemberLa Quinta, CA - USA
Joined: 3/19/2008
Posts: 53
Vette(s): 1968 convertible, small block, auto, pw, pb, ps, air, 3rd owner CA black plate
Thanks Madrider... appreciate the suggestion.
Bob
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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