Topic: 71 front brake leaking, recommendations...
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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When as I was under the car lately, I noticed the passenger front wheel was covered in fluid. The fluid leaked out and onto the bottom of the tire. And the car was only sitting for a few days.
I was getting a pulling motion when braking to the driver's side. Obviously because the other side wasn't braking enough so it overcompensated.
I know the history of my car and the brakes were redone at least twice. i don't think they were re-done in SS. However, I know there's a lot to be said about sleeving the calipers with Stainless Steel.
Anyone done this with SS? Can I perfrom this? Or do i just buy the calipers already done? I've done brakes on many cars, but not on a c3 vette.
Any suggestions please let me know. 'Preciate it.
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Lifetime MemberHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
Stainless is definitely a good option. I've never sleeved calipers myself, but, a second set of hands is helpful. Heavier, bulkier calipers with 4 pistons to manipulate....
Get yourself a set of the clips that hold the pistons in place - they'll save you a few 4 letter words. Check the rubber brake lines as well. If you're pulling the calipers, now is a good time to change them.
Good luck
Paul
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Check the rubber hose going to the caliper. Mine started leaking and that was all it was. I would spray it down good with brake cleaner and see where its comming from first.
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Frederick, MD - USA
Joined: 9/8/2003
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Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
I agree with what they said. Unless you know for a fact the rubber hoses have been recently replaced, you have to assume they're the original brake hoses. I think you should replace all of them...front and rear just for safety's sake. Also...if you find the caliper has to be rebuilt or replaced, you should replace or rebuild them in pairs. That keeps braking pressure the same on each axle so it won't pull.
Check your brake pads...if they've been covered in brake fluid, they need replacing as well. If you replace the calipers, they generally come with new pads.
yeah, i know the deal with calipers and brakes. I just did an 88 Iroc Z- new calipers on both but one side always pulled too much. Found out one hose was new, the other wasn't and it looked fine, but stuck.
So with the Vette, I'm going to do both fronts for saftey's sake. maybe i'll get lucky and find it's just the hose, but then i might as well have a look at the caliper too.
And with fluid all over, the brake pads are probably soaked- so there's a replacement job in the works.
We'll find out.
If I do decide and get the SS sleeved calipers, should I keep my orginals or not bother. Do you just buy them complete?
They might have been replaced for all I know (i have receipts for 2 brake jobs, but i think it was the rears last time).
I have 125K on the car and it just happened to suddenly sprung the leak, so I'm thinking hose.
Lifetime MemberManteca, CA - USA
Joined: 11/20/2005
Posts: 3623
Vette(s): 1978,two tone,Metalic Rootbeer & gold
1975 L48 4 speed
[QUOTE=2nd2ja] If I do decide and get the SS sleeved calipers, should I keep my orginals or not bother. Do you just buy them complete? They might have been replaced for all I know (i have receipts for 2 brake jobs, but i think it was the rears last time). I have 125K on the car and it just happened to suddenly sprung the leak, so I'm thinking hose. [/QUOTE]
If your buying rebuilt calipers there is usually a hefty core charge attached to the price. As far as the sleeves, as old as these cars are you may find that some one else has already changed out the calipers for rebuilts and they already are sleeved, but you can't tell til you've removed the pistons and wiped away the gunk. Resleeving is not a job a guy can do on his own. Even machine shops won't get involved in that procedure. You usually have to ship them out some where to a specialist who offers that service. I've seen calipers suddenly start leaking before. As crud builds up behind the piston the abrasives must compromise the seal.
Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again. 
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If you haven't already, I suggest that you get a set of braided brake lines as they won't bulge and leak as easy as the pure rubber hoses. I put them on mine and don't worry as much about line leaks now.
Larry
The difference between men and boys is the cost of their toys!!
I looked over the leak. It wasn't wet at all above on the hose or top of the caliper or even the bleeder valve.
It was wet at the very bottom by the two large bolts, so i think it's the caliper leaking.
But I might as well replace all the hoses too.
Got an estimate for SS sleeved calipers at $99 each (core $60) so that's probably what I'll do.
I did notice that the calipers had a blue retaining clip ors omething that didn't look quite stock in it.
I knew the brakes were bled at least every other year but it wasn't driven much and they go bad just sitting still.
get the o ring ones they last alot longer if you let the car sit just my .02 .......Bill
I pulled out the front caliper. Looked actually newer and pads were good, but wet. I'm not sure where the leak came from exactly, but I went ahead and bought 2 new SS calipers from corvette Specialties along with new pads.
Unfortunately, I wan't able to unscrew the hose from the hard line. It was already shot and rounded over. Darn it! I bought a replacement front line, but I can't even begin telling you how impossible it is to put it up through there!
I'm trying to unbolt my compressor to see if that gives me more room. Otherwise, I unbolted then tore out (literally) the orginal line from below. For now, I clipped off the line before it went up and into the junction box.
I can't even attempt to put a small wrench around the bottom junction line to even loosen it let alone take it off. It points down against the frame. Maybe if the other wheel is off i can reach it, otherwise...
I'm wondering, could I keep the line in there and splice it. I have a double flaring/tube kit.
All this work- I'm doing the brake job but I initially wanted to farm out the line (and then they needed bledding again). They wanted $90-100/hour. No way. I don't even think professionals could do this better than I am.
Any ideas on installing the front hard line?
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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