Topic: 71 front brake leaking, recommendations...
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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Lifetime MemberI just replaced all of the rubber brake hoses (Larry is right, I used braided hoses) after rebuilding all 4 previously sleeved calipers (2 developed leaks after the car sat for a while, so i just did them all). Did you try to remove the rubber hose from bottom-side of the retaining clips where the rubber hose transitions to metal line while working inside of the wheel well? I was able to use a couple of flare wrenches, but if the end of the rubber hose is rounded-off, use a pair of vise-grips to get a good lock on it and use a flare wrench on the metal line so that it doesn't bend while you remove the rubber hose.
Rod
Rod
Rod Woodson
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HARROD, OH - USA
Joined: 7/25/2003
Posts: 335
Vette(s): 1976 - L-48 Auto, A/C, AM/FM, Power Windows, Tilt Telescopic Wheel, Factory Aluminum Wheels, Inferno Red Matalic Custom paint with Black Leather Interior.
First off, SPRAY THE CRAP out of the threaded connection points with break free or something simular. Do it again and again. Then wait a while. Then get the smallest pair of vise grips you have and a flare wrench to put on the head of the steel line. Work at getting the vise grips to lock on what is left of the rubber line head and hold both tight. Then try to work the vise grips a little. I worked them in both directions a little at a time and then finally was able to get them to break free. It's a pain to get in there but, be patient an persistent and you can do the job. And you're right. You can do the job at less money than the shop at $90/$100 hours.....
You're all right!
The hard line going into the brake hose was rounded off- bad news. The hose wasn't stripped and was okay, but I still don't trust 'em (after my IROC's hoses looked good but weren't).
I did use a vise grips over the rounded line, then twisted it around until they both seperated. But the hard line couldn't be saved- not even enough room to cut off the line and re-flare it! I pulled down the line from below- literally torn it out.
I ended up buying SS brained hoses off ebay- all four (but I'll just put the fronts on for now.)But I can't even begin to install them (let alone the calipers, pads) until i have the hard line installed.
I'm a wrencher and lots of cars over the years. But this Vette is very challenging. The plugs ttok probably 5 hours (still have to replace wires). Now the brakes are the next challenge...
The brake line install is a nightmare. I can't get the compressor out of the way to even get the line up and through from below, then under the A-arm and out to the brakes.
Also, I have no way of going up and into the brake junction box, so i cut it off just before.
Please, anyone out there who has installed a right/passenger front hard line in a complete car (not just the frame obviously) send me your suggestions!
I have the hard line in... almost. The hardest brake job i've done on a car- no thanks to the line being bad.
Miked the rotors- they felt and looked smooth but were out of specs- 6 thou on the one and 3 on the other. I could've machined 'em but i just bought new ones. $89 each.
Had to buy rivits for the rotors, too. Is this necessary now? Gonna take 'em apart soon.
Boy, the vette stuff is expensive. I have over 600 in front brakes (new rotors, pads, SS calipers, hard line, small drivers line, and I still have to get the bearing. though I did buy SS braided Russel lines- which were only another $20 over the stockers.
All said and done, I have $650 probably in a brake job- and I'm doing it.
That's almost as expensive as my Chevelle's whole front db converstion kit. That's juts not fair!
Okay, here's the lowdown on the ongoing saga of the 71 C3 brake job:
Finally got the new hard line in- just have to hook 'em up on the ends. It's near impossible to get to the driver's side- you have to go through the wheel well. Be prepared to turn the brake line wrench maybe an 1/8" turn at a time. It takes forever.
I used penetrating oil for days on the lines- and they still would hardly budge. Finally broke one loose and took it out.
There's a bolt and brake line clip that you can feel but not get a wrench on. The alternator and brackets are in the way and it's under the A arm. I ended up using a long breaker bar and punching through the old line right at the edge of the clip. then I tore it out in sections from the front and through another back pocket. Maybe on sbc car there's more room. BBC- there's no way to get in there with the engine and accessories/shroud installed.
Calipers have been mounted and readied with new braided steel lines.
Once i reconnect the line to the junction box, I'll be on a roll.
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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