Topic: 72 Master cylinder question
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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Clifton, NJ - USA
Joined: 10/3/2003
Posts: 129
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe
Ontario Orange
Black leather interior
LS-5; Turbo 400
As I continue to struggle to get acceptable brakes, I wonder if the original M/C come withn bleeder screws?
The one that was on my car when I bought it in '88 did not, and the new one I got from Corvette Central did not.
I would think bleeders on the M/C make it a lot easire to bleed. And that might just be the demon I'm fighting here.
Thanks
BB NJ Ken

The one that was on my car when I bought it in '88 did not, and the new one I got from Corvette Central did not.
I would think bleeders on the M/C make it a lot easire to bleed. And that might just be the demon I'm fighting here.
Thanks
BB NJ Ken

1972 T Top 454; "Boomer" Latest "upgrades": 1 1/8" front Stabilizer bar. Rebuilt SS calipers with O-ring pistons. Under car Chambered exhaust. Fiberglass rear spring (360lbs/in). Bilstein Rear Shocks. 3/4" Rear Stabilizer Bar. Tow hitch. Performer manifold with 600 cfm Holley. Comp Cam 262 .499 lift. L-88 Hood in process
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Clifton, NJ - USA
Joined: 10/3/2003
Posts: 129
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe
Ontario Orange
Black leather interior
LS-5; Turbo 400
Thanks all;
Tom, I've rebuilt all the calipers( previously SS sleeved), adding the O-ring pistons, new rotors, SS flex Brake lines, new M/C, new Power Brake booster. The pedal just doesn't feel right, and the initial bite of the pads when I apply the brakes doesn't feel as if they are getting all the pressure. No leaks anywhere.
The most frustrating part of this is that I did most of the above ( less the O ring ocaliper pistons) to my '67 ragtop 25 years ago with excellant results.
I started by gravity bleeding, moved on to pressure bleeding by pedal, and then tried vac. bleeding the system. My latest experience was Friday when I cruised the neigborhood with my son, gingerly trying the brakes, listening to all the new strange noises the car now makes ( I'm thinking rear wheel bearings, or parking Brake at the very least). However, I was able to lock up the front brakes in a simulated panic stop, so there is some hope.
On a real positive note, my chambered exhaust seems to enjoy setting off car alarms along my route.
Ah well
I guess this is why it's called a hobby, although I seem to recall that there is supposed to be fun somewhere in it!!
NJ BB Ken

Tom, I've rebuilt all the calipers( previously SS sleeved), adding the O-ring pistons, new rotors, SS flex Brake lines, new M/C, new Power Brake booster. The pedal just doesn't feel right, and the initial bite of the pads when I apply the brakes doesn't feel as if they are getting all the pressure. No leaks anywhere.
The most frustrating part of this is that I did most of the above ( less the O ring ocaliper pistons) to my '67 ragtop 25 years ago with excellant results.
I started by gravity bleeding, moved on to pressure bleeding by pedal, and then tried vac. bleeding the system. My latest experience was Friday when I cruised the neigborhood with my son, gingerly trying the brakes, listening to all the new strange noises the car now makes ( I'm thinking rear wheel bearings, or parking Brake at the very least). However, I was able to lock up the front brakes in a simulated panic stop, so there is some hope.
On a real positive note, my chambered exhaust seems to enjoy setting off car alarms along my route.

Ah well
I guess this is why it's called a hobby, although I seem to recall that there is supposed to be fun somewhere in it!!
NJ BB Ken

1972 T Top 454; "Boomer" Latest "upgrades": 1 1/8" front Stabilizer bar. Rebuilt SS calipers with O-ring pistons. Under car Chambered exhaust. Fiberglass rear spring (360lbs/in). Bilstein Rear Shocks. 3/4" Rear Stabilizer Bar. Tow hitch. Performer manifold with 600 cfm Holley. Comp Cam 262 .499 lift. L-88 Hood in process

Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
the replacement I bought for my last 69 did..
you can still bleed without the bleeders its just more of a PITA...
you have to have a bleeder kit.. they usually come with the MC
it has some little plastic fittings that screw in the brake line holes and have hose barb ends on them.
you can still bleed without the bleeders its just more of a PITA...
you have to have a bleeder kit.. they usually come with the MC
it has some little plastic fittings that screw in the brake line holes and have hose barb ends on them.
Former Member
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Portland, TN - USA
Joined: 4/29/2003
Posts: 805
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe
Anything, but Stock and more mods to come!
SSBC Force 10 Brakes, 3.73, TH350, 355 CID, Rack and Pinion, Vette Brakes suspension front and rear.
My 72 does not have bleeders. I got a replacement Master cylinder at Autozone. After core exchange it was only 14.99 and its identical to the factory one I took off. I couldn't see paying the corvette suppliers prices for what they call an original piece.
Make sure you take them out of the box and look at them. The ones at O-reilly's and Advance looked like a turd, nothing like the factory piece thats the reason I went with Autozone piece.
It included everything to bench bleed the master cylinder. This is really what you need to do. You can do this on the car.
Basically, just as Ben said, you install the pipe fittings in the locations of the two main brake lines that exit the master cylinder, attach the bleeder lines to them and run them up to their appropriate resevoir on the master cylinder. Pump away until you see no bubbles. Attach your brake lines and bleed the system.
If you replaced your master cylinder there should have been specific instructions in the box and the correct stuf to bench bleed it.
Make sure you take them out of the box and look at them. The ones at O-reilly's and Advance looked like a turd, nothing like the factory piece thats the reason I went with Autozone piece.
It included everything to bench bleed the master cylinder. This is really what you need to do. You can do this on the car.
Basically, just as Ben said, you install the pipe fittings in the locations of the two main brake lines that exit the master cylinder, attach the bleeder lines to them and run them up to their appropriate resevoir on the master cylinder. Pump away until you see no bubbles. Attach your brake lines and bleed the system.
If you replaced your master cylinder there should have been specific instructions in the box and the correct stuf to bench bleed it.

If you don't have the bleeders, just leave the rubber plugs in the master cylinder, mount it on the car, and slowly pump the pedal. When the plugs start to pop and spray fluid, remove the plug and connect the line. Pump the pedal a few more times and do the same with the other line. Once both lines are connected, you can loosen and tighten the lines and bleed them just like you do with the wheel bleeders. This will get most if not all air from the master.
I often replace master cylinders and get everything out without ever opening the bleeders. Of course then I go to the bleeders and flush clean fluid through the system. You want clean fluid, but it's easier when you are not pushing any air through the system.
One note. Push the pedal SLOW AND EASY! You don't want to spray brake fluid all over the engine compartment and fender. It eats paint.
I also bought my master cylinder at AutoZone, as well as my brake calipers. All operate very fine, and look the same as OEM. And it's way cheaper then the Vette suppliers.
I often replace master cylinders and get everything out without ever opening the bleeders. Of course then I go to the bleeders and flush clean fluid through the system. You want clean fluid, but it's easier when you are not pushing any air through the system.
One note. Push the pedal SLOW AND EASY! You don't want to spray brake fluid all over the engine compartment and fender. It eats paint.
I also bought my master cylinder at AutoZone, as well as my brake calipers. All operate very fine, and look the same as OEM. And it's way cheaper then the Vette suppliers.
Former Member
Send PM
Portland, TN - USA
Joined: 4/29/2003
Posts: 805
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe
Anything, but Stock and more mods to come!
SSBC Force 10 Brakes, 3.73, TH350, 355 CID, Rack and Pinion, Vette Brakes suspension front and rear.
I wasn't concerned about Correct part number as much as the correct look. Lifetime warranty too.
Good deal compared to shopping from one of the suppliers.
Good deal compared to shopping from one of the suppliers.


Frederick, MD - USA
Joined: 2/20/2003
Posts: 548
Vette(s): Frederick County Corvette Club (Maryland)
Tan 64 365 Hp Conv 4 sp
Red 72 4 sp Conv ..running a '68 327
Blue 76 Coupe L 48 4 sp
White 79 Coupe L 82 auto
Silver 98 Conv, 6 sp
35th Anniv '88 vette
My 72 has a Master Cyl with 2 bleeders ... but it is not original..I replaced the original about 10-15 years ago, but from memory it also had the same bleeder setup...
Been years since I had to replace a Master cylinder that did not have bleeders...and I think I bench bleed it... and it was on a 51 Ford ... and I was still in High School...
Bob Griffiths

Bob
64,72 & 98 Corvette Ragtops
76 & 79 & qa 88 ANC Corvette Coupes
Click on any image for larger view!
Ken, I chased brake problems on my 80 for weeks, and used it seemed like gallons of brake fluid,after changing several MC and all the calipers the fix was changing out the rubber brake hoses that go to each caliper with stainless braided lines and my problem was solved. My pedal is nice and hard and the car stops too.The stainless lines, for all four wheels when for 75.00 well worth it.
Good Luck
Tom
Good Luck
Tom
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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