Topic: Another Ball Joint Question
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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Got the ball joints out with all the help from my last post and all set to redo my control arm bushings.
The upper ones are original, rivited in, and appear to be in excellent shape. Tight, smooth movement and no visable wear on the ball part, but I ripped the rubber boots removing them.
Can I just replace the rubber boots or should I just go for new ball joints at this point anyway? Boots appear to be tucked in behind a metal sleeve.
If I replace is there any difference between the original looking ones (about $80) and the others, replacement or imported, (about $25) other than not looking original?
The old ones are still on the upper control arms. Lowers where redone by last owner not many miles ago. Car has 49,000 mi and has always been inside.
Thanks for all the help I have gotten here.
Jeff
Jeffm 2008-04-08 03:19:16
The upper ones are original, rivited in, and appear to be in excellent shape. Tight, smooth movement and no visable wear on the ball part, but I ripped the rubber boots removing them.
Can I just replace the rubber boots or should I just go for new ball joints at this point anyway? Boots appear to be tucked in behind a metal sleeve.
If I replace is there any difference between the original looking ones (about $80) and the others, replacement or imported, (about $25) other than not looking original?
The old ones are still on the upper control arms. Lowers where redone by last owner not many miles ago. Car has 49,000 mi and has always been inside.
Thanks for all the help I have gotten here.
Jeff
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Jeff;
You can get boots (rubber or urethane) to go over the old joints however, if it were me, I'd replace with quality parts. I'm not saying they have to be exact GM replicas, but something that will hold up.
I know what it is like to lose a ball joint at speed, as does 71Shark, mine was in a '70 GMC Pickup, his was in a late model Blazer. Makes for a pretty good story...after it's over.
I don't know what the NCRS rules are on that, others will. When it comes to stopping, steering and wheels departing the vehicle, I tend to err on the side of caution.
You can get boots (rubber or urethane) to go over the old joints however, if it were me, I'd replace with quality parts. I'm not saying they have to be exact GM replicas, but something that will hold up.
I know what it is like to lose a ball joint at speed, as does 71Shark, mine was in a '70 GMC Pickup, his was in a late model Blazer. Makes for a pretty good story...after it's over.
I don't know what the NCRS rules are on that, others will. When it comes to stopping, steering and wheels departing the vehicle, I tend to err on the side of caution.

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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
"Replacement" ball joints are obvious when judging, and they will normally warrant a deduction, so...if you are going for a judging type scenario, go with the ones that look the closest to original, which would also mean riveting them back in.
The stud part of the ball joint, where the nut goes, is totally different, looks-wise, than the original. If you replace the ball joints, they normally come with bolts and nuts, instead of rivets...again, easily detectable when judging...
As Dennis said, you can get just the rubber booties for them, if that's what you need.
If replacing the ball joints, don't scrimp on the quality...get the best ones you can. Moog makes excellent suspension parts. This is one of those areas that the cheap-o parts just ain't worth the savings. A cheap suspension part that takes a dump on you while you're driving could cause serious damage to you , and your car...

The stud part of the ball joint, where the nut goes, is totally different, looks-wise, than the original. If you replace the ball joints, they normally come with bolts and nuts, instead of rivets...again, easily detectable when judging...

As Dennis said, you can get just the rubber booties for them, if that's what you need.
If replacing the ball joints, don't scrimp on the quality...get the best ones you can. Moog makes excellent suspension parts. This is one of those areas that the cheap-o parts just ain't worth the savings. A cheap suspension part that takes a dump on you while you're driving could cause serious damage to you , and your car...


Joel Adams
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There is a very noticeable difference. I put the cheap ones on and they just don't look right. I got a picture of them on my photo share somewhere. Now these guys got me worried about the cheapies failing on me

Napa has "Perfect Circle" brand original equipment, lifetime warrenty for $64.00 ea. Anybody know anything about them?

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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Poifect Coicle is good, too.
Sorta "middle of the road"(no pun intended) brand...but $64??? Sounds a bit steep to me. Then again...Lifetime warranty is good too, but really...how many times will you really need to change a ball joint, unless it has a defect to start with? Most ball joints are good for at least 100, 000 miles...depending on the roads you drive on, of course!

Sorta "middle of the road"(no pun intended) brand...but $64??? Sounds a bit steep to me. Then again...Lifetime warranty is good too, but really...how many times will you really need to change a ball joint, unless it has a defect to start with? Most ball joints are good for at least 100, 000 miles...depending on the roads you drive on, of course!

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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