Topic: Brake hell
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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Hi all got a question. After about an hour of drivin (or when the beast is warmed up) the rear brakes start to stick when applied. Ive swapped out brake lines, power booster, bled the brakes a couple times, and inspected the whole system. So at this piont before I sink a bunch of money into it for a master cylinder or rebuilding the calipers Id like some advice.
Also the brakes I have on it have two bleeders in the back-per caliper. Am I correct in thinking that they should have one each for a 75?
On a last note just got back from Albuquerque Mon night. Was looking foward to takin the top off here in FL but looks like it will rain all week, figures dont it.
Thanx
Glenn
Also the brakes I have on it have two bleeders in the back-per caliper. Am I correct in thinking that they should have one each for a 75?
On a last note just got back from Albuquerque Mon night. Was looking foward to takin the top off here in FL but looks like it will rain all week, figures dont it.
Thanx
Glenn
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I'm far from an expert on brakes, but it sounds like you may have some gunk built up in one or both of the calipers. I did an overhaul of all the calipers on 'The Toy' a couple of summers ago and it wasn't that tough a job. Bought a honing tool, caliper rebuild kits, a couple of cans of brake cleaner, a pair of haz. mat. gloves and a gallon of brake fluid. I took my time as it was the first time I'd ever attempted to overhaul calipers. Haven't had a problem with any of them since.
Don't have an answer for you on when the dual bleeders on the rear calipers were used or not used. Zen-Master Ken will probably know.
He be 'da Answer Man'...!!! 
Don't have an answer for you on when the dual bleeders on the rear calipers were used or not used. Zen-Master Ken will probably know.


Norsky covered it pretty well, I would also try the rebuild idea unless they are still the old style "unlined" (no stainless insert in the bores) calipers. This is assuming you have already changed the flexible brake hoses. I would recommend getting the o-ring style calipers if yours are still the old type. There are 2 bleeders on the rear brakes, but only one on the fronts.

PERRYSBURG, OH - USA
Joined: 4/23/2004
Posts: 317
Vette(s): 1975 T-Tops,Lite Custom work,Many engine mod. 700R4 trans. body is shaved,17" wheels bf goodrich g-force tires,heavy sway bars front&rear rack&pinion steering,550 slolom springs with gas shocks.
I agree hole hartedly with the O-ring calipers. I fought mine for years had run out and nobody ever expained it to me. Like 5 brake shops. Called Vette Brakes the guys there expained everything from A-Z. I got there O-ring rebuild kit. After one saturday of work and I haven't touched them for two years. I am very pleased. If I can help let me know.
George
George


Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
how about proportioning valve ???
Suggest you mike the rotors. Minimum thickness is 1.230". The minimum thickness should also be cast into the rotor. Be real careful of the Chinese replacement rotors that are available at a low cost, they often warp first time they get hot. Got Rayloc replacements for mine through NAPA.
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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