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Topic: Brake Light

in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling


Brake Light

Posted: 4/27/03 8:31pm Message 1 of 8
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BUCKHANNON, WV - USA
Joined: 1/4/2002
Posts: 474
Vette(s): 81 T Top Beige in color
Hey everybody need your help. My brake light came on and won't go off and brake pedal is going to the floor. Any suggestions. Thanks Frank in WV |headscratch|


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Brake Light

Posted: 4/27/03 11:43pm Message 2 of 8
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Burke, VT - USA
Joined: 1/23/2002
Posts: 7313
Vette(s):
SOLD - "The Toy" - '70 Convertible
SOLD - "The Beast" - '90 ZR-1 (#682)
SOLD - "Betty" - '28 Ford Model A Tudor
SOLD - "BLKBRRD" - '78 Pontiac Trans Am
"BLUBYU" - '04 Coupe
First thing I'd do is to check for brake fluid around any of the calipers and junctions in the brake lines. If there isn't any fluid showing anywhere next check the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder. If it's low, don't just refill it - bleed the entire brake system. Chapter 9 in either the Haynes or Chiltons manuals has the correct sequence to use.

If the pedal stays solid after that you most likely solved the problem for the short term. But something caused the pedal to go soft. A possiblity is brake rotor runout which causes air bubbles to form in the brakes lines. You might want to have them checked also.

Hope that helps. Any other tips out there?


Jim Olson 

"The Toys"...!!!  Save the Wave!

Where I've been in a Corvette...!!!

Brake Light

Posted: 4/28/03 9:44pm Message 3 of 8
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BUCKHANNON, WV - USA
Joined: 1/4/2002
Posts: 474
Vette(s): 81 T Top Beige in color
Thanks Norsky, Will check this before driving this weekend. Frank in WV |thumb|


Brake Light

Posted: 5/1/03 8:33pm Message 4 of 8
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Toms River, NJ - USA
Joined: 3/24/2003
Posts: 105
Vette(s): '79 L82 4spd
Check all lines & connections for any leakage. If all looks ok,, then pump on the brake pedal a few times w/ the engine off, then hold down the pedal with firm pressure. If your foot sinks to the floor, then it's your master cylinder. Oh yeah, how does brake rotor runout cause bubbles in the brake lines? I've been in the automotive repair business for 19 years & have never heard that.
Bill


EdelBrock Performer w/ 750 doub pumper,port/polished heads, triple cut valves w/4th cut down the throat of the exhaust valves, 286 Comp Magnum cam, 1.6 roller rockers, ball-peen pushrods w/guides, screw in rocker studs w/girdles, Comp double-roller chain, , hi-rise valves covers w/ spacer (needed for the girdles), Flowtech by Holley long-tube ceramic coated headers into Stage II pipes (no cats), chrome wire looms for the MSD 8.5 mm wires, MSD 50,000v coil kit w/advance springs, cap, rotor, module, steel-braided radiator,heater,vacuum hoses, Infinity Kappa 4x6 plates (dash), Sony Xplode 6 3/4" (rear), chrome T-stat housing, A-arm shields, B&M Hammerhead shifter |IMG||/IMG|

Brake Light

Posted: 5/1/03 10:45pm Message 5 of 8
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Burke, VT - USA
Joined: 1/23/2002
Posts: 7313
Vette(s):
SOLD - "The Toy" - '70 Convertible
SOLD - "The Beast" - '90 ZR-1 (#682)
SOLD - "Betty" - '28 Ford Model A Tudor
SOLD - "BLKBRRD" - '78 Pontiac Trans Am
"BLUBYU" - '04 Coupe
 BacaBill said: ... how does brake rotor runout cause bubbles in the brake lines? ... 


I've never experienced it, just read about it here on the site in other threads and in repair manuals. I don't know if I can describe it correctly, but as I understand it if your rotors are not true they will cause the caliper pistons to pulse in and out very quickly which causes the air bubbles to form in the brake lines. Then when you step on the brake pedal you get the spongy feel or nothing but floorboard.

Anyone please feel free to correct any or all of that explanation.


Jim O.
Save the Wave...!!!
|wavey|


Jim Olson 

"The Toys"...!!!  Save the Wave!

Where I've been in a Corvette...!!!

Brake Light

Posted: 5/2/03 5:50am Message 6 of 8
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DOWNINGTOWN, PA - USA
Joined: 11/24/2001
Posts: 962
Vette(s): 1969 Monza Red Black Conv / Black Vinal hardtop 454/480 Tremec 5 Speed 308 Posi.Black Leather Interior, PS, PW, Air cond., tilt/tele,AM/FM Cass.-5 Pack CD, Hurst Shifter, side pipes 2004 Yellow convertible with black top and black interior
BacaBill,
Look up Vette Brakes and Parts on the internet (they are located in Florida). Send them an e-mail asking about rotor runout. They will give you a true ear-full of information on it. It is for sure real !
My guess is that many mechanics don't know about it because it basically occurs during high speed driving like on a turnpike or freeway and unless the problem is bad, it won't show up till you drive at 65 for a number of miles. As the rotors get worse, it will show up in shorter and shorter high speed hops. Many mechanics deal with the same type of local commuters on a year in year out basis and this type of problem just in not previlent. It is kinda like you have to know about it to look for it. If someone comes in with a mushy pedal or no pedal at all, most places will do a quick check, find no leaks, bleed the brakes, top off the fluid and send the customer on their way. Problem fixed, and may never show up again...if the car stays off the expressway.
Before I get a lot of flack, I have experienced the problem and had mechanics continue to tell me the master cylinder was bad and kept replacing it. I finally e-mailed Vette Brakes and took their answer with me to a mechanic. He told me that Vete Brakes was full of crap. I went to a Corvette specialist. They said it is a 'common' problem and had the car fixed the next day. My problem had gotten bad enough that it would show up with about 5 miles of 70 mph driving.

|UPDATED|5/2/2003 5:50:17 AM|/UPDATED|



Brake Light

Posted: 5/2/03 12:10pm Message 7 of 8
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Eastern part of, CT - USA
Joined: 1/29/2002
Posts: 319
Vette(s): White 73 convertible - 350/auto, A/C PS, PB, PW, leather, t/t, two tops Also had a 69 t-top 20 years ago
I had the same problem with my 69. The rear brakes would get air in them after a couple of weeks. I was too cheap at the time to fix it, just kept bleeding them. I should have fixed them, because one day someone pulled out from a parking lot and I couldn't stop in time.

It is a somewhat difficult fix, because the rotors are indexed to the hubs and riveted in place. You have to put the rotor back in the same orientation as it was removed. If a previous owner removed the rivets you don't know if they put the rotors back in the right orientation. Then they should be checked for runout on the car with a dial indicator.

Joe


Brake Light

Posted: 5/7/03 9:50pm Message 8 of 8
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BUCKHANNON, WV - USA
Joined: 1/4/2002
Posts: 474
Vette(s): 81 T Top Beige in color
|headscratch|


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