Topic: Brake problem
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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I don't mean to jump the thread, but I'm in the same situation, so I'll ask my questions...
The car sat for almost a year. I did a full tune-up, started it and it went fine. I didn't drive it because the brake pedal is pretty much stuck at the bottom. Tonight I did a visual inspection of all the brakes (it's on 4 stands and all wheels off right now).
Found out I got speed bleeders on it.
I would like to start by flushing entirely, but there's 2 things I don't know.
1) I don't know about the current fluid; DOT 3 or DOT 5 (synth or not)
2) to completly flush, do I "need" a pressure bleeder ?
Once I get this done, I get to drive it! Last time I did was in April 06... can't wait!
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Spotsylvania, VA - USA
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I had to replace the Calipers to get good brakes. They were bleeding fine, then after a couple 100 miles, the brake light would come on . So, I started replaceing parts. It acutally was the Calipers Getting air through the pistons. A friend of mine had found an old flyer with the information. Replace the calipers with ones with the Stainless steel inserts.
Adam, Do I need to remove the master cylinder to bleed it. I did bleed it
prior to install but may not have done it enough. I also had to remove it
when I put in the booster and then bled the system again without much
success. How expensive are power bleeders? At this time my hourly wage
on this car is in the Ferrari scale. Can I buy one with a prancing Horse logo?
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You can get a pressure bleeder at Pep-Girls, etc., I think. Prolly round $100 or so...maybe less? My "professional" bleeder set me back around $300 many moons ago, but...I use it quite often, so it was justified.
Even if you get/use a pressure bleeder, you would still need to start by bleeding the master. You do not have to remove the master to bleed it...just be careful not to get the fluid on your paint.
Even if you get/use a pressure bleeder, you would still need to start by bleeding the master. You do not have to remove the master to bleed it...just be careful not to get the fluid on your paint.
Joel Adams
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Well, in my case, I'm not going to fork 300$ (or even 100$) on a pressure bleeder. No Pep-Girls (or Boys) in my neck of the wood. I still can't believe that Car Quest (in my area) didn't have retaining pins and actually asked me for the year/make/model of my brakes to see if they could find such pins.
At least today, I found out (if it's true) that DOT 5 is almost purple and DOT 3-4 is more yellow. Since DOT 3-4 can be mixed (but not 5 as far as I know), I'll start by making sure it's not five (purple) and then bleed (but not pressure bleed) the entire system and replace all the fluid (DOT 3) and new pads. My caliper, lines, pistons and o-rings looked good so I'll take it from there and see where is goes.
Correction, everything was not OK. This is driver/rear; look at the outer pad (bottom left)... Is this piston related ?
(modified large image to link)Adams' Apple 2007-07-26 10:02:51
(modified large image to link)
IN THE PICTURE IT APPEARS THAT THE PAD IS TAPERED. sMALLER ON THE LEFT THAN THE RIGHT.
IS THAT WHAT YOU ARE REFERRING TO?
IF IT IS, THE PISTON MAY BE STICKING. NOT RELEASING WHEN PRESSURE IS RELEASED.
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Either that front piston(lower left in pic) is sticking OUT/dragging, or the rear piston is stuck IN, and not putting pressure on the pad at the rear.
Either way, it is a caliper issue, and it's gonna need to be fixed...
If you look closely, you'll see the piston on the lower left is corked in the bore a bit.Adams' Apple 2007-07-26 10:07:33
Either way, it is a caliper issue, and it's gonna need to be fixed...
If you look closely, you'll see the piston on the lower left is corked in the bore a bit.
Joel Adams
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I was trying to take the calipers out tonight and ran into a little problem; on none of the 4 wheels, I can get the line out. All 4 where already stripped a little bit. I wish I had a 3.4 or 3.5/8 wrench. I tried a vise grip and nothing (besides stripping it a little more). Then I went for PB blaster and still nothing. I decided to sleep on it.
My intention is to get them all out, clean'em good and see if I need a piston rebuilt kit.
Concerning the bleeding; what a surprise! looks like on one side of the master there was DOT 5 (really dark) and DOT 3 or 4 on the other side. When I bleed the master (both) into a single bucket, the mix became very clear as one type of oil was floating on top of the other.
Back to the line; I'm really afraid that if I stip it a little more, I'll have no choice but to replace the entire line because of the design.
Back to Bo's problem; while diagnosticating (is this a word ?) my problem, I read on Chilton's (page 9-3) something about the brake booster where the brake light would come up after a major brake task performed because the "switch" under the master (I think they called it) would not be centered. A lack of vacuum hold in the booster would also result in his problem. I'm not sure if it's related, because the way I read it in the book, you have the problem or you don't. The way Bo described his problem, he has to drive it a little bit before it happens.
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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