Topic: (brake)combination valve switch
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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here i go again.. after been able to solve some (electric) p[roblems all by myself
.. i stumbled on a problem on which i can use some advice:
after putting the dash gauges etc back in the car , the brake light keeps burning (ignition on). i have already been able to check out it isn't the parking brake.
so it must be the warning light switch of the combination valve.
when disconnecting the wire from the valve the light goes out.
There is enough oil in the brake cylinder, i don't have any leaking in the brake system/callipers.
and it looks like the brakes work ok.. is there a way to test if the switch doesn't function properly ( valve has been disconnected/out of use for about 1.5 year) or can it still mean there is some air in one of the brakelines?
i saw an instruction in the service manual but i got the idea that was meant to test if the switch will turn the light on .. but in my case..i want the light out
art-corvette

after putting the dash gauges etc back in the car , the brake light keeps burning (ignition on). i have already been able to check out it isn't the parking brake.
so it must be the warning light switch of the combination valve.
when disconnecting the wire from the valve the light goes out.
There is enough oil in the brake cylinder, i don't have any leaking in the brake system/callipers.
and it looks like the brakes work ok.. is there a way to test if the switch doesn't function properly ( valve has been disconnected/out of use for about 1.5 year) or can it still mean there is some air in one of the brakelines?
i saw an instruction in the service manual but i got the idea that was meant to test if the switch will turn the light on .. but in my case..i want the light out

art-corvette
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Take the bulb back out,
Either your proportioning valve is stuck,or the switch is bad,
It could be air in the lines,the proportioning valve has a sliding rod inside,when you loose pressure on one side of the valve or the other ,the rod moves ,it has a detent in it ,which activates the light switch.sometimes you can unscrew the switch from the valveand the shuttle rod will recenter itself,If you are sure there is no air in the system,you should be able to step on the brake pedal 3or4 times really hard and it will recenter itself ,and the light will go out.give that a try,if it does'nt work,get back with us
Ron 78 2006-10-30 14:12:07



C3VR Lifetime Member #93
thanks , i will try it tomorrow.
but just to be sure i unscrew the right thing... should i unscrew where the wire ( B) was connected or at point A ( looks like a rod comes out of that screw?) ( couldn't find a better pic in my thousands of pictures corvette resto library

anyway it makes good sense what you said since the brake system has been out of use/disconnected for so long .
during my ride up and down the street today and pushing the brake pedal hard a few times the light kept burning.
art-corvette
art-corvette 2006-10-30 14:45:35
but just to be sure i unscrew the right thing... should i unscrew where the wire ( B) was connected or at point A ( looks like a rod comes out of that screw?) ( couldn't find a better pic in my thousands of pictures corvette resto library


anyway it makes good sense what you said since the brake system has been out of use/disconnected for so long .
during my ride up and down the street today and pushing the brake pedal hard a few times the light kept burning.
art-corvette

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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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How far out of the p-valve does "A"(rod) stick? It should be just a bit out. If it is sticking out 1/4" or more, the valve has flopped. I've had really good luck re-centering the valve by jamming on the pedal as quick and hard as I can, engine running(altho, I haven't seen this method in any of the service manuals...
). May take a couple of good pops. If you do this, and the light goes off, there is probably still some air in the system, or possibly the spring inside has broken.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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had some delay in testing/solving this problem but looks like the (alarm) light did function right and not a damaged switch, probally lighted because of a brakeproblem.....just had a braketest and one of the rear brakes was not functioning well... probably some air in the line/calliper.
anyway..i had my real maiden ride after almost 3 years of restoring ..
art-corvette
anyway..i had my real maiden ride after almost 3 years of restoring ..

art-corvette
Check the rotors for run-out. If they are more than .005" TIR, you could have brake problems again with the pistons pumping and getting air in them.
When I was having brake light problems, I was able to get the light to go out by hitting the brake pedal hard and quick, but it would come on again when I braked.
When I had the rotors turned and the lines bled, no more brake problems.
When I was having brake light problems, I was able to get the light to go out by hitting the brake pedal hard and quick, but it would come on again when I braked.
When I had the rotors turned and the lines bled, no more brake problems.


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thanks for the input , it was indeed just some air in rear brakes, switch worked perfectly afterall :)
art-corvette
art-corvette
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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