Topic: Braking problems
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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My reservoir was low on both sides also.
The brake light was coming on and staying on.
The brake pedal was low and mushy.
I filled the reservoir and pumped the brakes.
When the brake pedal was pushed, the brake light came on and then off.
Now, here is the real strange part.
When the brake light came on, the light for the radio also came on.
AND, there was a buzzing noise!!!
Note, engine was idling at the time, I think.
The radio was off.
I may need to go out and check that again.
Is there a connection between the brake light and the radio light?
Is there a safety buzzer to tell you your brakes are low?
Am I loosing it?
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The connection would only be a ground. Could be a bad connection and causing the power to back feed through any number of places. Try running a ground wire from the battery to the gage cluster and see if that fixes anything. If it does, then you know it is a faulty ground and can start tracing them.
Brian - NCM Lifetime Member
73 coupe L48, Flat-top pistons, Performer RPM Heads, Crane Cam and roller rockers, Holley 650 vac sec. Performer intake,
3.55 gear BTO 200-4R trans,
Leather seats, Seatbelt Plus 3point seatbelts, Pioneer CD player
Magnaflow Exhuast System
Dewitt radiator and dual electric fans
Borgeson Steering box
Dang, I thought I had the optional "Flashing radio and buzzer safety warning- your brakes ain't working".
I suppose to reach the gage cluster I'll have to stick a probe under the steering column while pushing the brake pedal with my hand and looking at the radio light. I may need an assistant for this one.
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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Brian is right...sounds like a grounding issue. But...I would solve the brake problem first. That way, the brake light won't come on, which means the radio light won't come on, and the buzzing won't be there.
Sometimes, just unplugging/reconnecting the cluster will "fix" some problems like this, as far as the light show/buzzing is concerned. A little bit of corrosion on one of the terminals, especially on a ground, can wreak havoc on the cluster functions.
Sometimes, just unplugging/reconnecting the cluster will "fix" some problems like this, as far as the light show/buzzing is concerned. A little bit of corrosion on one of the terminals, especially on a ground, can wreak havoc on the cluster functions.
Joel Adams
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Try bleeding the brakes first. Gravity bleeding is a good option, but it does not always do the job. Use a pressure bleeder or a assistant to pump the brake pedal.
Granted if there is air in the system, it still needs to be fixed. Bleeding first may just help you to find the problem. All of the above is good advice.
If you try to rebuild the calipers, make sure the bores in the calipers are clean and smooth, but a small pit or scratch won't hurt. The sealing surface is not the bore, but the piston surface. These need to be about perfect on the surface where the seal rubs. The bore section is critical where the seal sits into the groove.
So if you use a cylinder hone to clean up the caliper, and new pistons if necessary, the will be in good shape.
Of course you can get lifetime warranty rebuilt stainless lined calipers from AutoZone for less that $70 each. That's what is on my cars. They are not o-ring seal, but work well. And if they fail they cost nothing in parts for replacement. Some other discount supply auto parts may have similar deals. Much cheaper than the Corvette supply houses.
I think I will invest in a pressure bleeder.
Unless NAPA or AutoZone or one of them places rents them.
First I need to take the wheels off and see if any of the pistons or calipers are leaking.
I think I detected a leak from the main reservoir yesterday, when I was changing my lower speedo cable.
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Sometimes a master cylinder will leak out of the back, through the seal where the rod comes out and goes to the brake pedal. With manual brakes you can see fluid on the inside of the firewall. With power brakes loosen the bolts between the master cylinder and the brake booster, and you can see fluid there. Just one more possibility.
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If You have a Caliper with a Scored or Rusted Bore it can still be Rebuilt. It will need a Stainless Sleave installed. At this point it will just become a Core for for an exchange with one of the many Corvette Vendors. I'd Recomend Vette Brakes and Products. Most Warped Rotors are Warped when the are Turned in a Brake Lathe. A lot of People do not recomend Turning Brake Rotors exspecialy C3 Vettes. If the Rotor is so bad it needs to be Turned then the Scape them. However if the Rotor is not Warped and or Groved just Use it again. Most Brake Shops always Turn Rotors because it eliminates Brake Squile and don't want Custormers returning to say the new Brake Job makes Noise. What makes the Noise is the Glaze on the Rotors won't let the New Pads Break in. If You Sand the Rotors and remove the Glaze Your doing the same thing. Just a DA Sander will work fine.
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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