Anybody ever change one on the back?....is there rotor pins that have to be drilled out?....byt the looks of it, the rotor isnt coming off too easily...how would i go about getting the rotor off so i can changed the Stud? Any help would be greatly appreaciated...

Kyle

Hey Kyle,

Last fall I rebuilt the rear calipers and had a heck of a time just getting them off. Finally managed to get them undone without cutting anything, although I did wreck a socket beating it onto a bolt head I rounded. One rotor still had the rivits through it so had to drill them out to free up that rotor. The other had been replaced already so the rivits were gone. Use lots of penetrating oil on the bolts and exercise an extreme amount of patience and things WILL come apart eventually.

So as long as I use penetrating oil...the rotor will come off?...will a 3 jaw puller help?....also..once i get the rotors off, can i bypass those pins and not put any in there?..is this a good way to tell that they are original?..Thanx for the help...

Kyle

Kyle,
In my opinion the rotor will come off with a little oil. Maybe some tapping with a hammer. Shouldn't be too bad. Also a little tip me dad showed me was to drill out the center of the stud. It seems to releive some pressure and make the broken stud come out easier. I've done it on my wife's car once. Also, the new stud will be splined so try and line up the new splines with the current ones in the rotor. It will aid in the install. Then you will have to press in the bolt or use some washers and the nut and "press" it on that way. You wont's need any replacement pins (rivots) to hold it on. With the rim and caliper, it's not going anywhere.

That should work.
Mike

Thanx for the help guys....One more thing, Will have to have the Rotors machined after i put them back on the hub?..and is the pins that are in the rotor now, a good sign they could be factory? thanx again

Kyle

After you drill out the rivet, if the rotor still won't come off, smack it between studs with a brass hammer. That will loosen things up easily. You may find that you have to make the stud a little shorter to bring it through the back. A grinder is good for this job. There will still be plenty of threads left. You will need several large washers and a nut that has the same size threads as a lug nut. Grease the threads a little when you're using the nut to pull the stud into the axle flange. When you're removing the rotor, mark one stud and the hole in the rotor that it is through. Match up the marked stud and hole when you're putting the rotor back on. In the future use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs. You will esecially need to do this after every ride, for the first few rides after replacing the cracked stud. No matter how tight you pull the stud in, the wheel will still pull it in a little farther, making the lug nut a little looser. In most cases, this is what causes studs to crack in the first place.