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Topic: Broken Wheel studs

in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling


Broken Wheel studs

Posted: 8/16/08 9:32pm Message 1 of 9
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Well, had a really bad Wednesday afternoon.  Trying to beat a rainstorm, 2 wheel studs broke on my RF wheel.  I was able to pull over and check it out to see if I could make it home, I just went very slow. 

Anywho, my question is has anyone replaced wheel studs on the front wheels before?  I don't have much money right now to pay someone to replace them, so I would like to do it myself, but I don't want to get in over my head.  Anyone have some advise?  Thanks!


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Broken Wheel studs

Posted: 8/17/08 5:35am Message 2 of 9
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HOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
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Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
You don't want to beat on the front hubs as you'll also be beating on your bearings. I had 2 replaced - took the hub off myself and the machine shop charged me $10 to press the old ones out and install the new ones.


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Broken Wheel studs

Posted: 8/17/08 8:11am Message 3 of 9
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
You'll need to remove the rotor/hub assembly first, which requires removing the brake caliper.
With the rotor laying flat on a piece of wood, or padded cement, knock the broken studs out from the front side. You may need a punch, depending on how much of the stud is still there.
Once the old studs are out, notice that they have splines, or fluting on the end that fits into the hub. This is to keep the studs from spinning around as you tighten/loosen the lug nuts. Try to start the new studs into the hub with the splines lined up as best you can...it'll make it much easier to install them.
You can take them to a shop and have them pressed in, if you do not have a press yourself, but you can also use the lug-nuts to pull them thru the hub.
Place the stud in the hole from the rear, and get a flat washer that will fit over the stud on the front side, put the washer on, then a lug-nut, but turn the lug-nut around backwards, so the flat side is up against the washer/hub. Then simply tighten the nut down, pulling the stud thru the hub. You can help it along by gently tapping on the back of the stud as you go, but that's usually not needed...the nut will pull it thru just fine, in most cases.
Once you have it all re-assembled, and the car back on it's wheels. drive around a while, and then re-tighten the lug-nuts, to be sure they are tight. Then check them again before every drive for a day or so, then you should be good to go.
Good luck....and Welcome to C3VR!!


Joel Adams
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Broken Wheel studs

Posted: 8/17/08 1:38pm Message 4 of 9
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Falls Church, VA - USA
Joined: 3/22/2006
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Vette(s): 1975, 4 speed, L48, NOW Silver mist, Oxblood inside 2003 50th Av Torch RED little brother to 75
[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]You'll need to remove the rotor/hub assembly first, which requires removing the brake caliper.
With the rotor laying flat on a piece of wood, or padded cement, knock the broken studs out from the front side. You may need a punch, depending on how much of the stud is still there.
Once the old studs are out, notice that they have splines, or fluting on the end that fits into the hub. This is to keep the studs from spinning around as you tighten/loosen the lug nuts. Try to start the new studs into the hub with the splines lined up as best you can...it'll make it much easier to install them.
You can take them to a shop and have them pressed in, if you do not have a press yourself, but you can also use the lug-nuts to pull them thru the hub.
Place the stud in the hole from the rear, and get a flat washer that will fit over the stud on the front side, put the washer on, then a lug-nut, but turn the lug-nut around backwards, so the flat side is up against the washer/hub. Then simply tighten the nut down, pulling the stud thru the hub. You can help it along by gently tapping on the back of the stud as you go, but that's usually not needed...the nut will pull it thru just fine, in most cases.
Once you have it all re-assembled, and the car back on it's wheels. drive around a while, and then re-tighten the lug-nuts, to be sure they are tight. Then check them again before every drive for a day or so, then you should be good to go.
Good luck....and Welcome to C3VR!! [/QUOTE]
 
Clap Good Stuff Adam
 
Guy



Broken Wheel studs

Posted: 8/17/08 11:59pm Message 5 of 9
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Excellent!  Thanks everyone!


Broken Wheel studs

Posted: 8/18/08 4:58pm Message 6 of 9
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SHELBYVILLE, TN - USA
Joined: 7/5/2002
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Vette(s): 1976 L48 auto

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an impact wrench works wonders here too....when drawing on the stud with the lug nut... i would also recommend that the lug nut used to draw the wheel stud onto the hub, be discarded, its usually stressed out by the time you get the stud fully seated and tends(in my case anyhow) to strip out the threads on the lug nut....


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Broken Wheel studs

Posted: 8/21/08 10:36am Message 7 of 9
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Mounds View, MN - USA
Joined: 5/24/2007
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Vette(s): 70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe
Check the hole diameter to see if it is still OK.  Our rebuilder says most of the time the holes let the stud wobble, which increases the chances of breaking again. 

Larry



Broken Wheel studs

Posted: 8/22/08 9:08am Message 8 of 9
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Old Hickory, TN - USA
Joined: 5/26/2003
Posts: 599
Vette(s): 1978 L-82 Silver Anniversary hotrod. /////////////
On the stud subject.... I bought a set of '78 alloy wheel lugnuts from Ecklers (they are discontinued by GM). They were evidently made from junk Chinese steel causing the threads to break off the nut either in use or when torqued. After about a year the nuts backed off one wheel and were retightened (I didn't realize then the threads were busted).

I had my wheels rotated and balanced for the Hot Springs trip and when the dealer tried to remove the lugnuts, 4 studs busted. On close inspection the threads were distorted on most of the remaining lugnuts.

I wonder if all these aftermarket pieces/ parts come from the same manufacturer. I think I am in an unsafe situation, especially the way I drive, and so are a bunch of other people who bought aftermarket lugnuts.

I have searched GM dealer inventory to find if any are left over and there are none. Does anyone know if any of these are made in the good ole USA anymore???


Dave



Broken Wheel studs

Posted: 8/23/08 4:33am Message 9 of 9
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Greensburg, IN - USA
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Vette(s): Previous: 1984 Coupe, 1988 Maroon Coupe, 1989 Coupe, 2001 Roadster Present: 1967 Stingray Roadster, 1976 Stingray Coupe, 1989 Roadster..
[QUOTE=Adams' Apple] You'll need to remove the rotor/hub assembly first, which requires removing the brake caliper.
With the rotor laying flat on a piece of wood, or padded cement, knock the broken studs out from the front side. You may need a punch, depending on how much of the stud is still there.
Once the old studs are out, notice that they have splines, or fluting on the end that fits into the hub. This is to keep the studs from spinning around as you tighten/loosen the lug nuts. Try to start the new studs into the hub with the splines lined up as best you can...it'll make it much easier to install them.
You can take them to a shop and have them pressed in, if you do not have a press yourself, but you can also use the lug-nuts to pull them thru the hub.
Place the stud in the hole from the rear, and get a flat washer that will fit over the stud on the front side, put the washer on, then a lug-nut, but turn the lug-nut around backwards, so the flat side is up against the washer/hub. Then simply tighten the nut down, pulling the stud thru the hub. You can help it along by gently tapping on the back of the stud as you go, but that's usually not needed...the nut will pull it thru just fine, in most cases.
Once you have it all re-assembled, and the car back on it's wheels. drive around a while, and then re-tighten the lug-nuts, to be sure they are tight. Then check them again before every drive for a day or so, then you should be good to go.
Good luck....and Welcome to C3VR!! [/QUOTE]

This part in Joel's reply is really important. I have found wheels lugs to have become very loose after a few days.

Stingrays point is very valid as well concerning the stressed lug-nuts. Either of these can damage the vehicle or you. It is definitely not worth the risk to overlook such simple procedures.

Good Luck with the install!


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