OK... need some advice... I need to replace upper control arm bushings and lower ball joints .. degree of difficulty?. Compared to replacing trailing arms which I just did... More or less difficult... I want to do before PF...

JimG.. you just did yours didn't you?

 My friend owns an alignment shop and I trust his diagnosis... and he showed me the problem before he did alignment...

Any advice helpful...

2 cruzn38877.3958449074

My experience has been the front end work would be easier thatn the trailing arms. Given the appropriate tools,  I find the ball joint / upper control arm bushing replacement to be one of the easire tasks on a vette.  Note the use of easier rather than easy.  I have done both on my old C2, will be doing both on my C3 shortly.

 

At least thats my $.02.

PS Don't forget the beer.  Never underestimate the dangers of working sober!!

BB NJ Ken

Replacing the bushings is not a big deal, while you are at it you should also do all the front end bushings, the upper ball joints seem to last forever, the bottoms don't, the tricky part is getting the springs out without killing youself or lunching them halfway down the neighborhood,I have done the job countless times, but if you have'nt I sugguest you get a helper who's done it before to show you the ropes.

It does take a little time but is not any harder than doing the trailing arms. Just be careful with the springs. I see you have a big block so the springs will be stiffer than mine. You can rent or buy spring compressors for added safety. I did mine without and here is how I did it.

Set vette on jack stands and remove tires.

remove brake caliper

I removed the rotor so I could replace wheel bearings

Remove sway bar from A-arm

Remove tie rod from spindle with pickle fork.

Place floor jack under spring pocket and jack A-arm up just a little. Have the handle of the jack sticking out the front of the vette.

Loosen upper and lower ball joint stud nut and lower about 1/8" Do not remove the nuts at this stage.

Use the pickle fork to separate the upper ball joint stud from the spindle.

Do the same for the lower ball joint.

Now jack the A-arm up to take the load off the ball stud nut. You should see clearance between the lower ball stud nut and spindle. Remove the nut but be careful and make sure the nut is not carrying the load from the spring. Also do not sit right in front of the arm, stay by the door. If the a-arm should drop and the spring comes out you won't be in the way. This is why a spring compressor is nice

With the nut off, go to the front of the vette and very slowly lower the jack. With the lower a-arm all the way down the load should be off the spring and can be removed.

With the spring out and the spindle off you can unbolt the lower a-arm cross shaft

If you have the original ball joint then you will need to drill out the rivets that hold it to the A-arm. Getting the bushings out takes a little work. I would recommend taking them to your friend and have him replace the bushings.

The upper a-arm cross shaft is a bit more work to get out if you have a one piece shroud like I have.

When you put it back together do not torque down the bolts in the end of the cross shafts until the vette is back on the ground. Also bounce it a few time to get the suspension to settle a little. If you torque the bolts down a head of time the front end will sit a little high. This is caused by the wind up of the rubber bushings.

Hope this helps! If I missed something I am sure others will add to it. Take your time and always put safety first.

 

 

 

Suncountry's process sounds fine to me.  As he has said though, it's much safer with a spring compressor.

THE SPRING WILL KILL YOU IF YOU GET IN ITS WAY AND IT DECIDES TO GO WALKABOUT!

Take care.

[QUOTE=suncountry]

The upper a-arm cross shaft is a bit more work to get out if you have a one piece shroud like I have... [/QUOTE]

If you knock the two bolts for the shaft out of the frame first, the control arms will come out easily.

[QUOTE=Adams' Apple] [QUOTE=suncountry]

The upper a-arm cross shaft is a bit more work to get out if you have a one piece shroud like I have... [/QUOTE]

If you knock the two bolts for the shaft out of the frame first, the control arms will come out easily. [/QUOTE]

Thanks all for the advice.. I guess I will get started Sunday... day of rest you know...

Joel... the two bolts are the ones that go in the end thru the bushings?  one which is near the shroud?

 

[QUOTE=suncountry]

Hope this helps! If I missed something I am sure others will add to it. Take your time and always put safety first.

[/QUOTE]

Thanks Suncountry

Ray, the bolts I'm refering to are the two that go thru the shaft, and hold the control arm to the frame. It's where the alignment shims are.
I'll see can I find a diagram real quick...

Hey Joel,

I tried to knock the studs out but could not get a good hit on them with the hammer. Seems there was this thing called an engine in the way and an A/C compressor Anyway I gave up before I damaged something like my fingers. So I removed the fan and pulled the shroud loose. Then I pryed on the cross shaft which caused the plastic shroud to flex a little and was able to clear the studs. So it all worked out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v200/suncountry/Blastedpar ts009.jpg