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Topic: Crisis of the day

in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling


Crisis of the day

Posted: 2/5/05 11:30am Message 1 of 23
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Gloucester, VA - USA
Joined: 1/29/2005
Posts: 1453
Vette(s): 1979 T-Top, Metallic Green ZZ4 350/355 hp 405 ft/lbs torque Dual Spal Fans 700R4 4 Spd O/D Transmission 2004 Z06 Commemorative Edition

 

Since the sun was shining and the birds were chirping I decided to take the ride out for a run. All was well until a metallic rubbing sound interuppted the pleasant rumble of the exhaust.

It sounds like it's coming from the right rear.      

I pulled the wheel to ensure it wasn't the brake pads being worn and they look brand new. While driving if I jerk the wheel to the left the sound gets louder. If  I jerk it to the right the sound gets quieter or disappears completely.

It sounds almost like something rubbing on a heat shield but I can't see any shiny spots on any? 

 Help? Thoughts?

 Jim




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The Money Pit.... and my niece

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Crisis of the day

Posted: 2/5/05 1:15pm Message 2 of 23
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CUYAHOGA FALLS, OH - USA
Joined: 12/2/2003
Posts: 6424
Vette(s): 1975 C3 Red, T-Tops, Black Interior. All I need is time and money! Getting there!
Check your rear wheel bearings. kstyer38388.5917708333


Crisis of the day

Posted: 2/5/05 7:52pm Message 3 of 23
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Gloucester, VA - USA
Joined: 1/29/2005
Posts: 1453
Vette(s): 1979 T-Top, Metallic Green ZZ4 350/355 hp 405 ft/lbs torque Dual Spal Fans 700R4 4 Spd O/D Transmission 2004 Z06 Commemorative Edition

Looks like they need to be done...the repair manuals make it sound easy...

 If it's so cut and dry, Anyone want to try to talk me out of doing it myself or offer any suggestions?

 

  Jim

JimG38388.8286805556


Lifetime Member #73

The Money Pit.... and my niece

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Crisis of the day

Posted: 2/5/05 8:36pm Message 4 of 23
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20226
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Repair manuals make everything SOUND easier, but they don't always tell you how hard it really is. Rear brngs on a Vette are a P-I-A if you don't have the right equipment and patience. If you have to think about being able to do it, I would suggest finding a Corvette shop to do it for you, or buy the setup from one of the vendors on this site. There have been several threads on this, so you might search and find some replies. I do them quite a bit, but I have a shop and tools do do them, but it's still not a Sat. afternoon job. You only want to do this once, so it should be done right Am I right , guys?!


Joel Adams
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Crisis of the day

Posted: 2/5/05 10:57pm Message 5 of 23
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Lake Oswego, OR - USA
Joined: 12/29/2002
Posts: 355
Vette(s): 1968 Corvette T-Top Coupe, 427 L71, Rally Red Exterior, Saddle Interior
You  can't save enough money to do this yourself.  Its a major pain!  There are certain things in life to let the professionals do and working on the rears of Vettes is one of them.  I just changed a rear caliper once and it was a major pain.


Crisis of the day

Posted: 2/5/05 11:09pm Message 6 of 23
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Gloucester, VA - USA
Joined: 1/29/2005
Posts: 1453
Vette(s): 1979 T-Top, Metallic Green ZZ4 350/355 hp 405 ft/lbs torque Dual Spal Fans 700R4 4 Spd O/D Transmission 2004 Z06 Commemorative Edition
I should only have to replace the one side correct? It's not like brakes or tires where you do the pair?


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The Money Pit.... and my niece

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Crisis of the day

Posted: 2/6/05 6:03am Message 7 of 23
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KERNERSVILLE, NC - USA
Joined: 1/13/2004
Posts: 1355
Vette(s): 1968 L-71 convertible
If one has gone bad, the other can't be far behind, you wouldn't want the other one to surprise you at the wrong time, I'd do 'em both.


Crisis of the day

Posted: 2/6/05 6:52am Message 8 of 23
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Marion, IA - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 317
Vette(s): 1969 Corvette Stingray Convertible. Just bought it from my uncle who owned it since 1971. Fathom green, green interior. 350/300, T400.

I just took my trailing arms out yesterday to get redone, took 3 hours. I bought the suspension from Van Steel for $20, well worth the money! It shows tricks and saves alot of time.

 

Matt




Crisis of the day

Posted: 2/6/05 7:53am Message 9 of 23
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20226
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
[QUOTE=daveb12] If one has gone bad, the other can't be far behind, you wouldn't want the other one to surprise you at the wrong time, I'd do 'em both.[/QUOTE]
I agree....I tell people like this,"They both got the same amount of miles, if one's bad, the other ain't far behind!" That goes for u-joints, bearings, shocks, etc. It will cost more to do it right in the begining, but in the long run, you'll spend more time DRIVING than sitting on the side of the road!


Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    

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Crisis of the day

Posted: 2/6/05 8:37am Message 10 of 23
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BINGHAMTON, NY - USA
Joined: 7/19/2003
Posts: 3808
Vette(s): ......

I did mine a couple of years ago,It's a PITA,You have to remove the half shafts,strut arms,spring bolts,sway bar bolts,I left the control arm in the car because the bushings had been replaced just b-4 I bought the car.then you have to separate the bearing carrier from the control arm,after 25 years of being together they just do'nt want to be separated.from there I took the spindle assembly ,to a machine shop,just down the road from where I live.I made a lot of phone calls locally,b-4 I found the right shop to do them.If you have this done,do some checking first,call your local chevy dealer and see if they can do them for you,or find out if there are any local machine shops,that speciallize in these.DO NOT LET BUBBA got at them with a 5 lb.hammer.these parts are very expensive to replace,and it wont take much for him to destroy them.make SURE who ever you have do them ,they know what they are doing.I cant emphisize this enough.the spindles have to be pressed apart,checked for any damage,while my guy had them all apart he beed blasted them for me,checked them for wear and cracksI picked up the new bearings and seals locally,,and he pressed them back together for mehe also installed new spcers and shims inside because they have to be preloaded when they go back together to get the end play down to specs.make sure to use new bolts and nuts when you reinstall this stuff,you can get them through all the good Corvette catalogs.And as long as you have most of the rear end apart,replace the U -joints,stabilizer bushings,anything else back there,that might show ware,Do it now and save your self the pain later.This is not an easy job to do by your self if you dont have all the equipment,with normal mechanical skills,take your time replace all the bad parts ,clean and paint everything you can.just don't try to rush the job,plan on the car being off the road for a while and do it up right.If you want to avoid some of the work ,you can buy rebuilt units with or without the trailing arms,and simply replace the units ,but it is still expensive,AINT NOTHIN CHEAP ON A VETTE.good luck with the job ,if you need help just jump in here,we will walk you through it

Ron 7838389.5107060185


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in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling


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