I finished stripping my frame last night. (okay.. still need to remove the bolt on diff cross and take screws off and put in baggies) and I made some calls today.. found a guy who will sand blast for 100$

found all the frame parts.. vette products of michigan has them for the best prices I could find.
48" side rails 149$ each
end caps 7$ each
rear crossmember 99$
front bolt on cross 145$
diff bracket 55$

doc rebuild is close and i will check shipping to see whose better... unless anyone knows of someplace with better prices !!

I called steeroids to ask some question about the system..

found out a few good things..

found out which parts it replaces... almost bought a complete suspension kit with tie rod ends.. wont need those.

found out they dont sell a manual steering kit but if you plug the holes in the power kit it works, as im planning on leaving the power steering pump off the car.

it requires a dimple in one of the pipes with hooker SB side pipe headers, requires no mod for BB.

there was mention of a group purchase on steeroids a while back.. did anything come of it.

I also called vette brakes and products.

and talked to them about my springs.. I really like the front transverse leaf kit.. anyone done this..

but in all honestly.. it is 700$ and putting coils back in is only 60$... that may have to wait..

but in the rear im considering the dual mount adjustable spring kit. or just a 420lb fiber spring with bilstein sports.

anyway... anyone got any "product" recommendations ??

|UPDATED|9/29/2004 12:49:46 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

I wish I could help ya Ben, but I went back bone stock with mine, I felt the F-41 was more than adequate when I drove the car before tear down. The only departure I made was with the rods in the rear. I used the adjustable type.

I can't answer your questions, but I think it would be great to have a "Product Review" catagory on this board. Members could post specific products they have used and their impression/details (quality, cost, vendor, time to install, difficulty, recommendation etc...)

Can we do this?

The frame repairs make me a bit curious, will you have to put the frame in a jig to keep it true? Will you have to put it on a fram machine once you're done? I'd really like to follow this, I may have a 68 big block coupe to do soon. It's been sitting outside for a long time and looks pretty bad, a suspect some major frame problems on it.

yeah im interested in the frame repairs myself..

im taking it to a reputable custom rod shop for the work.. Ill ask them when I drop everything off..

im waiting for the sand blasting to be done before I order frame sections just in case..

if your frame is really bad.. I have a spare 69 frame that needs one section repaired..

it worked out so I was going to need the drivers side rail anyway.. and it was going to take more labor to remove and prepare the other frame sections from the spare frame.. I just decided to order new parts.. but a new frame is roughly 4300$.... anyway.. if you need one keep me in mind.. I dont want to store this thing...

the pieces I need are only going to cost around 500 + shipping.

I have the front traverse spring and tubular A-arms on my 72. Of course its a small block. Definitly worth the money. It's basically using C4 technology on a C3. The great thing about it is you can easily adjust ride height and ride comfort (stiffness). Your also removing a lot of weight. I didn't weigh all the pieces but i bet it removes at least 75#. Yes its expensive, but I notice I don't have as much front end bounce and the front feels more ridge. I also added their larger front sway bar. I think that has a lot to do with it.

The biggest factor in frame repair is make sure everything is in the correct position.

Before tearing it apart, measure every angle and position you can think of, and record it. Use front to back, side to side, X pattern, various weld to other welds. GET PICKY!

With the frame out, use a level and support the frame sections so they are DEAD LEVEL side to side, and front to rear. Then make sure the new pieces are in perfect line with the old ones, so there is no bowing.

Once you do all that, and it's really not very difficult just touchy, you can weld the pieces in place.

kstyer said: Once you do all that, and it's really not very difficult just touchy, you can weld the pieces in place.

frame work and painting are among the things I pay professionals to do..

I had to do a small weld on my frame this past weekend. Thankfully it was at a not so important structural point. The last owner tried to weld it, but instead it look like a bird had swooped in and taken a crap. Believe it or not all it took was the pointed end of my welding hammer and the weld broke appart and came right off the frame.

Another good grinding, a good cleaning and my small mig fixed it right up.

I got the crossmember off.. one of my employees was over hepling me finish up some siding work.. while he was here we moved the frame outside and I had him stand on one side of the crossmember.

Since he is 6'4" 320+ lbs the crossmember popped out of the drivers side without a problem (my 190 just wouldnt cut it)

then i pulled it forward (pivoting on the pass side) and the pass side fell right out..

pretty easy..

my bushings are dry rotted badly..

no big deal though.. they were going to be replaced regardless..

also.. I was looking for the frame vin.. the #3 location is completely rusted out.. but .. I took and angle grinder and a wire wheel and knocked the funk off the frame and the #4 location vin is intact and matches the car/engine/transmission.

Its just nice having proof..