I am redoing the brakes all around on my vehicle. The first caliper I put on (driver's rear) was right on the money for run out. I next went to the driver's front and it is out by 0.015". I moved the rotor around to differenet stud positions, but the run out stayed at 0.015". I have read about tapered shims, but am having trouble to find a place where I can get them. Does anyone know a good source?

I was looking for then about a year ago and found them online but I cannot remember the site, it may have been on ebay but they WERE NOT inexpensive.  I ended up using .002 stainless steel shim stock to make shims to bring mine true.  I drilled and tapped my spindles and bolted the rotors to the spinle flange so things would stay where I put them.

Hobby Shops usually have an assortment of brass stock...you might give that a shot.
Does the actual run-out stay in the same location on the hub, regardless of the rotor position?
Or, does the run-out follow the rotor position?
You may have a bent hub, or possibly some rust that is keeping the rotor from seating properly.

I'm going to do a few more investigation steps and see what the run out is of the hub by it's self. I am wondering if the bearing setup affects the run out?

YES I DID

The front rotors should never be removed from the hubs to start with...they really should be kept riveted together, as there's really no need to separate them like there is on the rears. Not that it's a bad thing to do, just that there's no reason to do it. That would keep the possibility of hub/rotor run-out a non-issue....
I have seen hubs that were far enough off to cause a bad run-out issue at the outer edge of the rotors, so it's definitely something to look into.

OK, if I have some time tonight, I will start to take some measuerments to see what the root cause is.

Well I spent some time taking measurements.

[QUOTE=jp75vette]Adam, I had to take the rivets on the fronts out as the rotors were too thin and I had to replace them. Should I rivet them back? [/QUOTE]

No, no..I'm not suggesting that at all...
The rotor/hub assemblies aren't that much more expensive than just rotors, so if the rotor is trashed, it's just what I would do...replace the whole thing. That's just me, tho...either way is totally acceptable. My point was that it does keep problems like this from occurring.
Riveting the rotors back on will do nothing for the run-out at this point anyway, unless you had them turned as an assembly afterwards.
 I always turn new hub/rotors when I get them anyway, just to make sure they are true when installed. It's harder to true a rotor to a hub if it's in two pieces, as most cars are these days.