Topic: Front suspension rebuild
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling

Moderator
Hi Jim
I have thought about poly bushings but am concerned that the ride might be harsh and I don't want to hear the squeaking. I have poly on the rear leaf springs of my MGB and they like to squeak. I have tried grease but that only seems to last a month. Once the front end is back together on the vette I don't want to have to take it a part just to lube the bushings. I also don't take the vette to its limits so I don't know if poly is really necessary for me. I assume you are running poly. How is the ride. Do they squeak and are your a-arm bolts staying tight. I have heard some people have had problems keeping the cross shaft bolts tight. I do appreciate your input.
Thanks
Glen
Glen,
Poly bushings do not affect ride. Springs and shocks do. They eliminate any unwanted deflection in the supension making the car handling more responsive.
Get poly bushings that are impregnated with graphite if you so choose to go that route. You still have to apply the grease supplied with the bushing kit. When properly done they won't squeak. Plus they are easier to install vs. rubber. Use a little "loc tite" on the a- arm bolts.
I installed polygraphite bushings (complete) in the '81 about 6 yrs. ago and have yet to hear a squeak from them. Car handles like it's on rails. The ride is very good though. I get a lot of compliments on the ride comfort from past passengers who wanted to go for a "hell ride." lol.
Good luck, Sarge


Moderator


As Sarge says, the poly does handle better, and with the graphite, they don't squeak. Without the graphite the noise can make you crazy. Some are better/quieter than others. You may not notice a difference in ride, but it's usually a bit stiffer. Not for bumps, the springs and shocks do that, but small rough areas of pavement may transfer a bit more harshness. Again, wheather or not you feel or notice it will depend on the tires, springs, and shocks.
You can get the tools you need as a rental/loaner from several parts stores. AutoZone, Murry's, Advance, etc.
It's also a lot easier if you take the coils to a spring shop and have the banded. This compresses the spring, and puts a steel band on them to hold them compressed. They are a lot easier to install. Once in place and the suspension secure, cut and remove the bands.
Due to the frame space it's difficult to use a spring compressor on the front spring. Some compressers are okay, some simply won't work at all. The banding gets away from this problem.

Moderator
Thanks for the help Ken. Sure hope your wife continues to get better. We are still thinking of you and your family.
The front end is coming a part fairly easily. I just have the left upper a-arm, drag link and idler arm to come off. I did get the lower a-arm bushings out last night. They weren't to bad to get out. Fortuneatly the inner sleeve was not rusted in place. My pickle forks did fall apart on me before I finished getting everything apart. They were cheapies and I though I could get at least one tear down out of them. Next step is to knock most of the dirt off the parts and then find a powder coater in Spokane. I may take my alternator, AC, and steering cylinder bracket in while I am at it. That right upper a-arm was a bugger to get out. Lots of stuff in the way.
I think I will start looking this weekend for a place to buy the graphite poly bushings, front end parts and 460 lb front springs. I plan to tear down the spindles and get those powder coated too. My disc shields are pitted so new ones are in order as well. Looks like will be helping spur the economy along
Thanks as always for the help.



Moderator
Actually I might get away with it. Her dad was a farmer turn crane operator and her brother is a car nut as well. So she is pretty tolerant of my activites. She didn't seam to mind when I put my interior parts through the dish washer last winter.
Well I am down to just knocking the bushings out of the upper control arms now and then some clean-up work.