I went to take the '80 out two days ago and the brake pedal went to the floor board. Tonight I replaced the master cylinder, hooked up the lines, filled it up, and had a buddy pump the brakes and then hold the while I cracked the bleeder valve open. At first the left side inner spit some dirty fluid, then went clean. Moved to the outer and it spit clean. Repeated the process to make sure the air was out , the inner was fine, the outer didnt spit fluid the second time. As I held the valve open I had my buddy pump the brakes( which he said kept going to the floor)and I could see it bubbling a bit, then a little fluid, then back to bubbles and that was it , no more fluid. The master cylinder was full. Whats the deal........ help

Chapter 9 in both the Chilton's and Haynes repair manuals have a bleeding sequence that has always worked for me.

I started the sequence as stated in chiltons, with the left rear inner line then to the left rear outer line...ITs there i'm running into the issues...

I have yet to replace a master cylinder but have read that they need to be bench bled before being installed. Did you do that? The repair manual should have that process outllined.

Good luck!
____________________________________

Jim O.
Save the Wave...!!!

the instructions said it could be done on the bench or installed...

Are you CLOSING the bleeder valve when the brake pedal is let back up? Your one description sounds confusing. Mike

Yes, you need to bench bleed the master cylinder, but as far as bleeding the brakes at the calipers, the best way I have found is gravity bleeding. Had to go through the sequence 3 times, but ended up with the firmest pedal I have ever had in the 18 years I have owned the car. Vacuum pumps are a waste of time and wear your hand out, had no luck with pumping the brakes and my wife now has a right leg with muscles like Arnold.
Just crack each bleeder with the hose to a jar (I used the jar from the Mighty Vac pump) and let it drip. Takes a long time to fill the jar at least 3/4 of the way before you go to the next bleeder, but you can be doing other things while it pretty much bleeds itself.
Good luck...I know bleeding the 4 piston calipers can be trying, but this really works.

Reid '72 T-top

Try pressure bleeding. Bought a pressure bleeder last month($50)and did one of mine in about 15 minutes! Flushed 2 quarts of fluid through the system. Of course, the Vette was already up on jacks and the wheels removed. Was surprised how fast and easy it went. Pressurize the system and then go around in the proper sequence and open the bleeders. Probably drained about 12 oz. of fluid at each bleeder. Didn't even have to pump up the pedal when through. Mike

I always bleed the master first then follow the haynes/chilton order..

if I have a second person I like the old fashioned way

if not I use vacuum and have had no problems doing so..

" I held the valve open as my buddy pumped the brakes" You must have the valve closed when pumping the pedal, If not you are sucking air into the lines when ever the pedal comes back up.