Topic: Help with bleeding brakes...
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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You MUST open all the bleeders to get all the air out.
Soaking the bleeder will help. Be carefull not to break it. They break easily. Heat can and will help, but if you apply too much heat you will ruin the seals in the caliper, requiring a rebuild. Thats the seals metioned above. Really not too hard to do.
The rust on the bleeder could indicate other problems, but if the pistons move freely and don't leak, there is no problem.
If you are real lucky and there is no air on that side of the caliper, you can bleed it the without opening that bleeder. But you still have dirty fluid there that will mix with the clean fluid. If you bleed it several times after driving a ways, eventually you will get most of it out.
But if you keep soaking the bleeder sooner or later it will likely loosen up. This could take quite a while.
WD40 is good. PB Blaster is better. GM Heat Riser Lube and Penetrant is the best.
Soaking the bleeder will help. Be carefull not to break it. They break easily. Heat can and will help, but if you apply too much heat you will ruin the seals in the caliper, requiring a rebuild. Thats the seals metioned above. Really not too hard to do.
The rust on the bleeder could indicate other problems, but if the pistons move freely and don't leak, there is no problem.
If you are real lucky and there is no air on that side of the caliper, you can bleed it the without opening that bleeder. But you still have dirty fluid there that will mix with the clean fluid. If you bleed it several times after driving a ways, eventually you will get most of it out.
But if you keep soaking the bleeder sooner or later it will likely loosen up. This could take quite a while.
WD40 is good. PB Blaster is better. GM Heat Riser Lube and Penetrant is the best.
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Portland, TN - USA
Joined: 4/29/2003
Posts: 805
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe
Anything, but Stock and more mods to come!
SSBC Force 10 Brakes, 3.73, TH350, 355 CID, Rack and Pinion, Vette Brakes suspension front and rear.
If the rear calipers for a 79 are the same as what is on my 72 then I will sell you these cheap. I installed a Stainless Steel Brakes Force 10 brake system and have all the old brake parts lying around in my garage. When I bought my 72 the owner said it had all new brake pads, rotors and calipers on it. When I took them off they showed very little wear on the pads, but like most metal parts they had a covering of rust. If they will fit I will sell them cheap and I will even sell the rotors with them. $30 each plus what ever shipping will be that includes the rotors. If you don't want the rotors then I will sell the calipers for $20 each. You may Need to have the rotors turned, just to be sure they are true and match them to your hubs to make sure the run out is correct. These felt fine when I drove it for a month.
I will even soak them in evaporust to remove all the rust.

I will even soak them in evaporust to remove all the rust.



Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
i am interested in these parts if dude above isnt..
Former Member
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Wayne, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/31/2002
Posts: 973
Vette(s): White 1975 L48 Stingray 129,000 Miles, daily driver.
cthulhu said: i am interested in these parts if dude above isnt.. |

My Left rear is missing the inside bleeder screw...(drill and tap and on my way, but a rebuild sounds beyond me)
Scot
Well for me I solved my problem and replaced both of my rear calipers. My brakes have never been better. Thanks for the help. sorry I couldnt buy your calipers. I needed my vette on the road fast and autozone had stainless sleeved calipers in stock.
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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