Odd, but I could not find a post on what is probably a very common part replacement.  If there is one please point me in the right direction.

I need to replace my brake pads, so based many of your comments I just picked up two sets of the CarbonMetallic pads at AutoZone.  Also got that special tool to push back the calipers.

Anyone got an easy 10 step process to replace these pads?  Any thing I need to watch out for (my god man....that was stupid  why'd you do that?).

Everyone says its easy....but I'm not everyone...

Thanks

Take the wheels off. On the top of the calipers, you will see a pin that goes thru the top of the caliper, with a cotter pin in it. Take the cotter pin out, and then take the pin out. This will let the pads come out thru the top of the caliper.
The pistons in the calipers have springs in them that keep the pads touching the rotors, so the pistons will move toward the rotor when you pull the pads out. The "special tool" you mentioned may be usless, depending on what you got. If it is designed to push the pistons back in the calipers on other cars, it will not work on a 'Vette. There are "clips" that are used to hold the pistons back in the calipers on 'Vettes. It takes four of these to do it , but two will work if you install one pad at a time in the caliper.
You have to move the pistons back into the caliper, and then hold them, due to the spring that wants them to stay out. This is the function of the "clips". You can use a small putty knife/scraper to hold the pistons in while you slide the new pads in the caliper. Once you have both pads in, reinstall the pin at the top to hold them in place, and insert the cotter pin in. It is best to use new cotter pins. They break easily if bent back & forth too many times.
If you have any troubles, I think you have my phone #. If not, P/M me, and I'll get it to ya.

This is the 'Vette brake piston clip. Is this what you have?
Adams' Apple38786.852025463

I am going to assume that you have inspected your rotors and they are in good shape. No grooves, and under .005" run-out. Also that your calipers are in good shape and no leaks.

To remove the brakes, jack the wheel up and support the frame with a jack stand. Remove the wheel. Place a 5/16" wrench on the bleed port located on the top back side of the caliper. Attach a rubber hose to the bleed port and place the other end in a bottle. Pull the cotter pin or clip that holds the pad retaining pin in the center of the caliper. Pull the pin. Open the bleed valve and push the old pads back against the caliper housing. Close the bleed valve. Pull the old pad and install the new. Depending on the pads you may need to install the anti squeal goo or thin sheet. This is supplied by in the box in most cases. The pad instruction should say if it is needed. Reinsert the pin through the brake pads. Install the cotter pin or clip in the retaining pin. After installing all the pads, flush the brake system to remove any air and remove moisture from the system. Use a hole fresh unopened pint bottle. Brake fluid tends to absorb moisture so don't use a bottle that's been opened for more than a month or two.

 

Hopes this helps

oops, Joel beat me to it

suncountry38786.8649768519

Thanks guys.

Joel, not even close....what they sold me looks like a mini vice...who sells those clips?  NAPA, O'Rilly?  (still got your number ... thanks)

Now, this part about flushing the brake system.....how do I know if I have to do that?  Or does it always have to be done?  Do I need to buy anything special to do this (besides the brake fluid)?

Reds82CE38786.8831481481

Nothing special to flush the system. Start with the right rear. Just attach the hose to the caliper valve and place the other end in a bottle. Have someone push on the brake pedal and crack the right rear caliper valve. When your operators foot reaches the floor, close the valve and have them pump the brake pedal again. Do this twice at each caliper.

I do mine as part of the prep to put it away for the winter each year.

Well, that was easy.  I used two putty knives in place of those niffty clips...I did not need to bleed the break lines.  Brake pedal seems the same as before (soft for the first half pedal distance and firm on the last half).  Car stays true when breaking at low speed or high speed - no pulling.

Sorry, I never heard anyone say to remove the cover on the master cylinder reservoir and cover with a clean towel or rag.  Just watched a guy replace his rotors and pads on a Yukon in my pole barn a couple weeks ago and he said this helps keep air OUT of the lines.  Was he $#!**ing me?

And what if you want to put some cross drilled and slotted rotors on in the process?  I've got a new (well at least 3 or 4 years now) stainless steel system installed and I've heard the silicone brake fluid doesn't absorb water like the regular DOT 3 stuff does.  What if I don't need to replace the calipers, but just want to change the rotors?  Probably need to remove the whole caliper assembly then huh?  Would I still need the piston clips for that?

Sorry, don't mean for anyone to not answer Reds' original question.

I agree with Ron, do not mix.

The reason he removed the master cyl cover was to allow the brake fluid in the calipers to move back in the master as the pistons were pushed back into the caliper. Now if you had been filling the master as the brake pads wear, then chances are the master would over flow. That's why I like to just bleed the fluid off at the caliper. It also helps to remove the crud that builds up in the caliper. Moisture tends to corrode the aluminum pistons and rust the caliper bores. Flushing helps to remove that crud which also helps to make the seals last longer. It will also help to move the moisture out of the system and puts fresh brake fluid into the caliper.