Topic: How to Test the Front End Components ?
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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Thanks in advance for any info!
How can you tell if front end components are worn?
Tie Rod ends?
Ball joints?
Idler Arm? etc
How can you tell if front end components are worn?
Tie Rod ends?
Ball joints?
Idler Arm? etc

|B|76 X coupe |/B|
#s match - Classic White - Buckskin
|IMG|http://webpages.charter.net/equestrian/76x.gif |/IMG|
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Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
i usually put the front ends on stands..
then check each component for slack.. up/down side to side..
I inspect the rubber and make sure its good, grease if everything is ok..
then check each component for slack.. up/down side to side..
I inspect the rubber and make sure its good, grease if everything is ok..
I'm not sure what movement is normal.
My tie rod ends move (rotate on the joint) up and down but not side to side. The boots look new.
There is some movement on the lower joint of the idler arm.
The ball joint boots are worn so I'll replace the whole part.
Is it easiest just to replace everything and use poly bushings to get it over with?
Thanks!
My tie rod ends move (rotate on the joint) up and down but not side to side. The boots look new.
There is some movement on the lower joint of the idler arm.
The ball joint boots are worn so I'll replace the whole part.
Is it easiest just to replace everything and use poly bushings to get it over with?
Thanks!
|B|76 X coupe |/B|
#s match - Classic White - Buckskin
|IMG|http://webpages.charter.net/equestrian/76x.gif |/IMG|

Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
if youre going to replace the ball joints then it is definitely easier to replace it all with a matched kit..
goto vette brakes and products and look at one of their poly kits.
I always say, if in doubt, throw it out.
you should not have any significant play in any of these joints.
goto vette brakes and products and look at one of their poly kits.
I always say, if in doubt, throw it out.
you should not have any significant play in any of these joints.
Tie rods can be rotated, but should have NO sidways play. They should have no up and down play, but there is a spring that can be compressed if you are using a bar to try to move them. This also applies to center links, pitman arms, etc. Everything except ball joints and idler arms.
Idler arms may have a slight up down movement at the end opposite of the frame. But usually no more than an 1/8 of an inch.
Upper ball joints should have no play in any direction. Lower ball joints may have a VERY slight play up and down, nothing sideways.
Ball joints should be checked with the lower control arm supported, and the tire in the air. This removes the pressure from the springs and suspension parts. If you don't remove the pressure, you won't find bad ball joints.
Idler arms may have a slight up down movement at the end opposite of the frame. But usually no more than an 1/8 of an inch.
Upper ball joints should have no play in any direction. Lower ball joints may have a VERY slight play up and down, nothing sideways.
Ball joints should be checked with the lower control arm supported, and the tire in the air. This removes the pressure from the springs and suspension parts. If you don't remove the pressure, you won't find bad ball joints.
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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