I want to replace the trailing arms on my '69 with rebuilt units. How tough is the job? A shop 3 hours from me wants $300 per side labor just to change them out. Looking at it, I see the front bolt will be a pain, then there's the shock mount, half shafts and stabilizer bars, anything else? (besides the caliper of course). I'm pretty mechanical, but I don't want to get in over my head...any advice?
Thanks,
Matt

I replaced mine by myself with only garage tools and I have been learning as I go. Yes, the front bolt was the challenge but it can be done with much patience. Be sure to use a shock mount remover to prevent damage. Good luck!

Most people will use a reciprocating saw to get the bolts on the pivots, cut on both sides and replace with new. There are some other "while I'm at it's" like struts, shocks, half shaft u-joints, brake hoses and lines, etc. If you are going to have an alignment done (recommended) you might want to get a package of trailing arm shims.

When you say cut on both sides, you're talking about between the trailing arm and frame, right? I was looking at it and wasn't sure whether to cut the nut off and push it thru, or to try to drive the shims out and cut on both sides of the trailing arm.
Thanks,
Matt

Matt, that is correct. You will probably wind up killing a couple shims, but often that is the easiest way to get these things apart. The lower shock mounts are the next hardest thing, if you have to replace them beware of Chinese aftermaket replacements.

Matt
Go to Vansteel's site & or call them. They have a video for $20.00 that explains the C3 suspension & shows exactaly how to remove & install trailing arms safely.
Alan

I recently took mine off and put them back on. I didn't think it was really that bad. I'm in the process of redoing my entire suspension and have never been in to this much depth with a car project so I was pretty nervous. As corny as it may sound, patience is the best tool to have!! I got them off pretty easy. The toughest part was the lower shock mounts. Mine were badly frozen. One side came off undamaged when I turned the castle nut around and banged it out with a hammer. The other side was not so lucky, it wouldn't budge. I got it out after a lot of banging and a cutoff tool. I replaced the both of them with new ones because even the undamaged one was extremely rusted. Getting the bolt back in took the longest when reinstalling the arms. There isn't enough space to get your hands up there. I tied a piece of string through the hole where the cotter pin goes into and fished it through the holes and trailing arm. I lined the bolt up with pliers and pulling on the string, then got it through with pliers and a pry bar. An extra set of hands to keep the trailing arm lined up will help a lot. I had a lot of trouble just trying to keep it balanced on the jack by myself. I ordered a stainless kit that included the bolt, castle nut, cotter pins, and shims... I think from Ecklers. If not them.. then from Zip Corvette. The first one took me a little time, but the second one became so much easier with the experience from the first. I actually forgot a washer on the second one and had to take it back apart...but had the arm bolted back on again within 10 minutes.

|UPDATED|7/27/2004 10:04:54 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|