I just had the power steering pump, valve and cylinder replaced on my '71 LS5. The old pump was shot and the car was probably driven a while with no fluid in the pump. The Vette was sitting in a garage for several years as well.

Anyway, with the new power steering components installed and fluid filled to proper level, I'm feeling lots of "play" at the steering wheel when on the freeway and the steering does not feel like it's fully "powered". There's definitely some assist, but not to the level thats proper. Should be easy and smooth right? Also, when I turn the wheel left and right heading down the freeway, I feel a "click" at the wheel. Almost like the steering box is shot or something. Could it be shot? Maybe from the previous owner driving it without power steering fluid for so long? Put more strain on the box? Maybe I should check the oil level in the steering box?

munkmunk said: I just had the power steering pump, valve and cylinder replaced on my '71 LS5 . . . I'm feeling lots of "play" at the steering wheel when on the freeway and the steering does not feel like it's fully "powered" . . . Also, when I turn the wheel left and right heading down the freeway, I feel a "click" at the wheel. Maybe I should check the oil level in the steering box?

Hey, Munk. Glad you got her back.

Yes, first check the grease level in the steering box. It's easy to do, it's dirt cheap . . . and it's one of the most commonly overlooked "service" items.

Having said that, the steering box may only be part of the problem - or it may not be the problem. Excess wheel play also results from (A) loose wheel bearings or (B) worn ball joints or (C) worn idler arms, pittman arms, or rod ends. In my experience, a front end shop that can properly install a power steering system at least has the good BUSINESS sense to check the condition of the steering system they're working with. I can see how they MIGHT possibly overlook the ball joints. But they should have caught the wheel bearings and noted EVERY deficiency in the steering linkages. If nothing else, it's their prime opportunity for additional business. Go back and ask them. Then go for a second opinion and compare.

Since you've already verified the proper fluid level, then the lack of PS assist is from either (A) loose or slipping belt (B) air in the system which needs to be bled out, or (C) a pinched or obstructed line. Check them in that order.

One question: is the lack of PS assist constant at all engine speeds or is it only weak at idle? If it's only at idle, you need to tweek your engine idle speed to help pull that additional load.

Let us know what you find.

John

|UPDATED|4/30/2004 4:43:36 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

I agree with all of the above. Look there first. But also consider the power steering valve adjustment. The valve is new, but that does not mean it's adjusted correctly.

Thanks for the info! The shop did replace the idler arm (which they said was shot) and said that the ball joints might be needed further down the road. But yeah, they should've checked the wheel bearings. They might be the problem with the play alright, since the car was sitting for quite a while. Also, just this weekend I heard a scraping sound at the rear wheel on the drivers side that increased in frequency as I speed up from a stop and then decreased as I slowed down. Like something was rubbing. I looked under the car and didn't see a thing. It went away after I drove a bit more at around 40mph, but then turned into a high pitch squeek or squeal. Could my rear wheel bearings be going out?

How do I adjust the power steering valve? The steering feels the same at speed AND at idle. So it must be air in the lines or a kinked line or valve being out of adjustment, eh?

Rear wheel scraping noise? I would check the e-brakes first. Power steering valve adjustment? disconnect the cylinder ram, start the engine and adjust the centering screw behind the dust cap on the control valve so the ram can be moved in either direction by hand. Poor assist could be a bad control valve, but try the adjustment procedure first.

and pray to God, Buddha, Allah or whoever that it isnt rear wheel bearings.

I can tell you from bitter experience it is better to buy a rebuilt trailing arm than to try to put new wheel bearing in yourself.

even most mechanics avoid rear wheel bearings in C3's like the plague.