I'm not exactly sure how to name this joint so I will do my best to describe it.  It is only on cars with manual steering gear.  There is a ball stud that bolts to the end of the pittman arm which is sandwiched between 2 springs in a pocket on the center link.  It appears to be removed/rebuilt by unscrewing a slotted cover.  I need to rebuild the joint as it is the source of the slop in my steering.

Has anyone ever replaced one of these?  Whats the best way to unscrew the cover?  Are the springs under a load?  Is there anything I should know before I attempt it?  How much should I tighten the cap which controls the amount of tension on the springs?

Any info would be appreciated, I can't find anything in various manuals.

Rick

What you are describing is the relay rod stud assy. You can buy the rebuilt kit from ecklers (# 38593) or others. It comes apart easy..I replaced mine 2 yrs ago & it does make a difference. The springs are under pressure ... that flat screw compresses the springs on either side of the stud. The kit includes everything including the rubber cover. Easy job

Good luck

Alan

Alan,

What did you use to unscrew the screw?  I don't happen to have a lot of 3/4" straight blade screwdrivers laying around.  Also, how much do you tighten it after you have replaced everything?  I imagine that having too much preload can serve to wear out your steering gearbox by not absorbing shocks as readily.

Rick.

 The tool makers have 3/8 & 1/2 in. sockets just for this job. It's nothing more than a screwdriver tip on a socket.

Dave

Alan,

What did you use to unscrew the screw?  I don't happen to have a lot of 3/4" straight blade screwdrivers laying around.  Also, how much do you tighten it after you have replaced everything?  I imagine that having too much preload can serve to wear out your steering gearbox by not absorbing shocks as readily.

Rick.

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Sorry I didn't get back sooner..problems with internet.  I been going up & down the last few days every few minutes, after much cussing and frustation finally found a bad hub that worked fine on the network... anyway. 

I used a screwdriver with a 1/2 blade about 18" long with a square shaft. Hooked a wrench to it and turned. Not a bad tool to have ..use it a a pry bar etc. I don't recall how I determined the correct tightness, but I do remember it was very obvious once it came apart. Those springs inside are very strong. Get the kit first and when you take it apart it'll be easier than you think.

Alan