I purchased a new master cylinder and installed it but I cannot get the brake fluid to pump out the side ports, what did I miss?

Any help would be greatly appreciated 

No, how do you bench bleed?

I have done this in the car but nothing is coming out.

I ran across a similar problem a few years back, but in reverse. Here's what I mean.
I rebuilt a mast. cyl. from an '81, as an "emergency" spare for my '74. One day, I needed it, so I installed it, or at least I tried. It turns out, there was a difference in the length of the pushrod that pushes on the piston in the mast. cyl. I placed both of the masters side by side, and found that the original one from my '74 had a 'hollow' piston where the pushrod goes, and the original one from the '81 was pretty much flush at the rear of the cyl. Mine took a longer pushrod from the booster than the '81. Don't know if that's the case here, but it might be worth looking at it, if you still have your orig. cyl. If not, just compare the pushrod. If it doesn't stick out very far from the front of the booster (or firewall, if non-pb), and the mast. has a deep-well piston, that's the prob. Just an idea!
If you do have the correct mast. cyl., and you can't get it to pump any fluid out of the line @ the cyl., then it may just be a defective master. Adams' Apple38550.7237615741

I just finished installing the original but rebuilt master cylinder in my 70. I found that by tapping on the front of the master cylinder with the cap off and enough fluid would cause air bubbles to start coming up through the small venturi in the master cylinder itself. I tapped until bubbles were no longer coming up through the fluid in the master cylinder from the one set of venturi. Work like a charm to get the air out of the master cylinder. I would try this before taking the MC back out.

Good Luck. I also put all new calipers on so I had bleed them via gravity and the old fashioned pump and hold method. Brake pedal is perfect so far.

Bill

You can also bleed the master on the car by taking off both lines.  Have someone pump the pedal GENTLY, and hold your fingers over the holes for the lines.  When the pedal is pressed down, open the holes, when the pedal is lifted, cover them.   When you start getting a strong fluid flow that pushes you finger off of the holes when the pedal is depressed, reconnect the lines.

One line is likely to bleed before the other, so connecting one then the other after a few more pumps on the pedal is okay.

With both lines connected, bleed the brakes AT the lines to the master by loosening and retightening the lines, like you would a  bleeder valve.   With both done, go to the wheels.  Sometimes you can get all the fluid out of hte system without going to the wheels, but it's a good idea to get clean fluid from the wheels anyway.  This helps prolong the life of the the brake system.

kstyer38555.9094097222

I got it , I had a little mental block when it came to bleeding the master cylinder but she is all set now.

Thanks everyone