Topic: New Brakes
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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Well, I bled my calipers yesterday, starting with the fronts first, using the vacuum pump.
Not much air in the fronts but lots of air in the rears.
The brake pedal is much stiffer, especially when the engine is off (I have power brakes).
But I still have this deal where I just touch the brake pedal and the light for the radio comes on. Is the radio light connected to the brake lights?
VERY strange.
I used to get a warning buzzer when I stepped on the brakes, but that is now gone.
VERY strange.
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oops, hit the post before posting....been a long day bleeding brakes...
Has anyone made one of these pressure bleeders for our older style MC covers? I have a vacume bleeder but can never get a good air-tight connection between the bleeder-valve and hose.
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Kerry...I have a pressure bleeder here...you're more than welcome to use it if ya need it. 
If I'da known/thought aboot it, I could've brung it to ya Saturday!
If I'da known/thought aboot it, I could've brung it to ya Saturday!
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When I first put fluid in mine after replacing everything I let tried to let it gravity bleed but it didn't really work. So I made a pressure bleeder like the one from the post and it was awesome still kind of a pain to add fluid but it worked. The metal I used to cover the master was a little thin so next time I'll get a thicker one. I used my old master cyl gasket under the plate and took the air pressure gauge of my compressors filter and stuck it in the garden sprayer.
Thanks y'all. 79rebuild, looks good, I was thinking of reusing the cap off my old MC but I like your approach better especially since my old cap has a lot of rust and may contaminate the new brake fluid.
I have brakes now but they seem soft (not mushy). Also the stopping distance isn't great - I can't lock the wheels when I do a hard stop at 35mph (don't trust them to try at a faster speed). I thought I should be able to lock the wheels if I had good brake pressure.
Joel, if I can't get a firm brake by the weekend I will give you a call...thanks
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It is fairly common to find more air in the rear brakes. It is usually caused by run out on the rear rotors. As they wobble, they push the pistons in and out and suck a tiny bit of air into the system. Do that for many miles, and you get spongy brakes. To be correct, the rotor should be trued to the spindle while the assembly is apart, then riveted, and then reassembled.
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