This got more complicated than I could imagine...

The rear end is crazy stuff. I have some questions, I hope you guys can advise!

I've been looking for a shop manual so I can stop asking... but all the haynes manuals, and chiltons I pick up don't have ay torque settings. The original assembly manual I ahve doens;t have any settings.... I'm so lost.

Can anyone tell  me the following torque settings:

Front shocks (upper, and lower bolts)
Tie rods
Rear strut arms
Rear shocks
Leaf spring
Rear CAM bushings
well, the whole rear end if you can.

My next questions are a bit more advanced, and involved....

On the rear end I found the following:


This is for alignment, am I correct? There is one on each side. The are in the front of the strut arms, both at the same angles.

This is crazy!!!


Also what is the best way to get taht CAM bushing out, and replaced without removing the whole section? My dad, and I were thinking of using a come along.


Courtney really needed a bath!

Thanks again guys,
-Louis

Louis,

   If you don't already have one, get the shop manual for the car. While you have the tail end of the car off the ground, if the suspension is hanging free, there is inward pressure toward the differential from the weight of the wheels, suspension as well as the pressure from the rear spring. Not sure how and where you would be successful with a come-along.

    I used 2 jacks under the rear wheels to equalize the pressure when I recently replaced my rear strut rods with adjustables. The bushings at all 4 ends were shot!! I replaced the steel spring with a fiber/carbon monoleaf at the same time, so it went much easier with the spring out of the car and out of the way.

     BTW, the adjustable strut rods eliminate the need for the cam bolts - the alignment is achieved through adjustment of the turnbuckles. They are well made and a good set is a little over $100 to $125 from Mid-America.

Good luck. Nice video!

Luke

Paul,

Year we used a jake to take some of the pressure off. We only dismantled one side for now. So we can at least of a model side. My orig leaf spring is intact, I have the urethane bushings for it. The struts I am considering buying those HP ones. The ones I ahve are in really good shape, minues the hard like plastic bushings. However, if they are already mounted onto the braket, and provide a lot better performance then I'll buy em. I don't know what ones though. THey have a wide assortment. And its like only a few dollars mroe for the next one, and then $100 for the competition, and then oif u go witht eh competiton for an extra $10 u can just get the race package.

I was thinking about just getting these:
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=33734&dept%5F id=1843

Or these:
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=28877&dept%5F id=1843

Both of those worth it. I'm not doing racing or nothing, but I figure, why not? Build for overkill now, go to overkill later.

**The hole car (all 4 wheels) are off the ground. Shes Up on jack stands**

I just took some pics of the BIG area in question:

That long piece of steel coming off the frame is called a CAM in the assembly manual. In between the piece of steel, and the frame is a bolt with a bushing, adn some sort of plate washer. The busing looks fine because its out of the way from direct sunlight, and mud/water... ect... However heat, and weight... ect. Wore it down a bit. This area holds all the weight, and power from the vette, this si waht you feel kinda slip into action when you put the car in drive, or really lay intot eh gass... it moves as it should. Amazing if you think about it. However, waht I'm scared of is the fact that for the last 30 years the Vette has only been shown, and expected to hnadle 200 or less horespower. The engine now is close to 400HP. What's going to heppen when that bushing is shown a lil bit more weight, and 400 (double) wild horses? I have the urethane bushings for it, its just a matte rof, do I need to take that apart? I mean thats a huge deal... its pretty much the WHOLE REAR END. If I put the new struts on and replace the leaf spring bushings myself, I could bring this to a trust worthy guy, and he could do it. But should I? Tahts a very important bushinh, and there is two of these...

Thanks guys,
-Lou

Louis,

    That's your trailing arm!! The basic configuration has not changed since 1963 and supported models pushing all the way up to and past 435 horses from a big block that also whomps out over 500 lbs/ft of torque.

   Your arms do look tired and cost about $350-400/side to replace with rebuilts. BAIRs does good work. Got mine from them. You will most likely not be able to get the bolt out that holds the trailing arm in place. Sawzall and a half dozen blades, an oil can and a lot of patience....you'll also need to get the rear re-aligned if you do the replacement. A good rule of thumb is to replicate the shim configuration so count the shims before you pull the business apart.

BAIR can add poly bushings on the TA if you want them.

Good luck

Louis,

I took off my trailing arms when I replaced all the bushings and suspension components on my car.  The bolt holding mine on came off pretty easily.  You just have to balance the trailing arm right or the bolt will be at a slight angle and not come out easily.  It took me a long time to take the first one off, clean it up, install poly bushings, paint it, and put it back on.  But by the time I got to the second one it was going very quickly.  I even took it back off and reinstalled one because I left a washer off.  The toughest part is getting the t-arms back on because there is not much room for your hands.  I recommend having another set of hands, because I had to balance the t-arm on a jack because I was doing it myself.  I also tied a string through the hole on the bolt, fished it through everything, and used it as a guide to get the bolt back out.  I also had to hold the bolt head with a pair of pliers because like I said... not much room for hands!!

It may seem like a lot of trouble to replace them, but since you have everything apart if you were ever going to do it now is the time.  I'd order a new bolt and shim kit too.  You can do it, just have patience. 

Louis check with Van Steele for the rear end and suspension parts. they are the suppliers for Ecklers and do their suspension rebuilds.I am real happy with their work. They also have a how to suspension rebuild video. www.Vansteel.com

Here is my conclusion.

I think I'm just goign to paint the Trailing arms liek I did the rest of the frame, and engien comaprtment. Leave the trailing  arms the way they are now. The bushings sohuld be fine then. I already ordered a set of adujustable struts long before thes thread. Then I'm just goign to replace the bushings on the leaf spring, and install new shocks, and install the new strut system. FRive it for a while. THen When I get enough moeny again. I'm going to get new trailing arms, competition race adjustable struts, and a monospring. Totally re-do the rear end. Then I'm a beef the engine up. Right now, I;ve spent a lot of money on her, and I jsut want to get her back ont eh road and enjoy her before I die. By the way the build si going, I'll be 50 before shes done.
Like everyone said... its a Vette. You're never going to be done.
Sound like a good plan?

Thanks guys,
-Louis