Did the original bolts attaching the spring to the trailing arm have castle nuts and a cotter pin?

The bolts and strut rods are the two non original parts on the rear suspension, other than the shocks, and I have found what I believe are original bolts and bushings but want to confirm.

Also, the service manual shows a chain to hold the spring up to allow the bolt and bushings to be changed. Has anyone ever tried a heavy duty furniture clamp? I thought it might be easier than the chain. How about a jack and a block of wood between the jack and spring?

Bill

My bolts have nylocs on them.  I usually just use a vice grip or something to clamp to the end of the spring way from the hole and jack it up.  Make sure you put the bolt in the swing arm first before jacking up the spring.

Originals had castle nuts and cotter pin.  I have an extra set of the long bolts, and they came with the locking nuts.  I changed the entire set on both sides, new rubber, etc.  Put a C clamp up the spring a little to keep the jack from sliding up.  Block of wood on top of jack to keep from scratching up the spring. Did both sides, easy fix.  I painted everything with zinc chromate first, then black zinc phosphate. 

Boatman

The "Original" bolts would have a shoulder on them on the nut end, so the nut would tighten down solidly on the shoulder, therefore, there would be NO adjustment possible. The nut was castelated and took a cotter pin. Most aftermarket bolts do not have this shoulder, and if you are having your car judged, it would be a deduction. Either way works just as well, but the longer aftermarket bolts will give you some ride hieght adjustment.

HI guys,

Thank you for all your help. I also checked my AIM and I know what I need and think I have found the originals.

 

BIll