any sugestions on removing the rear trailing arm with seazed bolts at the piviot bolts?  thanks Mike

Well, I just spent 30 minutes typing a reply complete with pictures to this thread only to push the button to post it and be informed that I didnt have permission to post in this forum.......... of course my work was gone when I pushed the back button..............##$%$^&&**(()@@@#@$%$#%%.  I should have learned long ago to copy my reply before pushing the button.  OH yes, I was logged on with my username visible in the upper left corner of the screen.Had to log out and log back in to post this...

OK, lets try this again... not as long as my initial post but here goes.

Mitch, I assume you, like everyone else who has had this problem have already soaked the shims and bolts in PB Blaster or some other "magic" elixir trying to loosen things up; it usually doesn't work.  Some have chosen to cut the bolts with a cutting torch which is efficient and quick.  I was not comfortable doing that and didnt have that much faith in my "torchmanship". My trailing arms were fine but the shims and cross bolt were hopelessly seized .   I cut mine out with a reciprocating saw and lots of blade, lots of cutting oil, lots of time, and lots blue language...not necessarily in that order.

If you decide to saw them out take my advise and use QUALITY (expensive) saw blades; using cheap ones is false economy.  You will need at least an 8 inch blade to get the last 2 inches of it on the shims and bolts tucked way back in the trailing arm pocket.  Buying 8 inch blades is wasting money.  Buy 12 inch blades, use the last 2 inches to cut till the teeth are dull then use a side grinder or dremel tool to cut off the worn 2 inches then use the next 2 inches, cut the blade and use the last 2 inches.  You can get 3 times the blade life this way saving time and money.  The trailing arm pockets have drainage holes in the bottom to allow rain water to drain out  These holes / slots will probably be packed with old rusted "gunk" (technical term) and metal shavings from the sawing you have done.  Once you get the trailing arms out be sure to clean out these drainage passages to keep the pockets from filling with water again as the ends of the shims rest in this area and will be rusting very quickly if there is standing water there.

If the cross bolts are seized in the bushing sleeves and they probably are you will need to cut both sides of the bolt to get the arm out.  I highly recommend replacing with stainless bolts and shims.  This is a job you do not want to do ever again.
Crossfire19822009-10-10 18:47:02

Boy, that sounds like work to me.  Hope I never have to do this !!

Same here. I used 12 inch steel carbide blades and snapped off the end of the blade every time it dulled and then kept going. Went through about 3 or 4 blades.

Hey folks, Flandy here.  The only problem with using stainless steel is that as a steel, it's as soft in tensile strenth as a Gr. 2 bolt, so that would be my concern as a sales rep who sold all kinds of fasteners  since 1978.  Just my 2 cents-Phil, I put Gr. 8's in my '68 when I rebuilt my t-arms.