The Rack and Pinion set up is very nice, top shelf actually. And very pricey. When set up properly the stock steering does a nice job. The wide tires will make the car a bit twitcher. This can be overcome with a larger front sway bar. This could make a bit of oversteer, so you may want to stiffen the rear a bit, or install a rear, as well.
You may also find adjusting the power steering valve will help the twitchy effect. Too loose is a real problem, but if it's too tight it is overly responsive, and can actually be harder to handle and control.

I have put 255-60/15 on my car, and will keep the standard steering. I will be happy with it. And it keeps the car more original. Not really a big deal for me, but I like to think about it. Throw in I can't afford the rack and it's an easy choice. I do like the way these cars handle in stock form. They can be improved.

One advantage of the Rack system is the less weight in the BB cars. The SM cars have about a 52/48 weight distribution. The BB cars are heavier in the front. The lighter rack would provide better balance for handling. Most people won't notice any difference.

BUT, we C3 fans are not most people.

So maybe mine just needs to be adjusted and some part replaced, how do you know if your power steering pump is going. Lately the steering feels heavy and hard to control.

Its possible to adjust it.Also,you have to remove one of the bolts & lube it occasionally,or check to see if its been lubed.

Does anyone have a good way to tell if the power steering pump is failing or if something is wrong with the steering cylinder or valve. I would hate to use the hit and miss method of fixing this. I don't see any leaks from the system at all, but it feels terrible. It is almost as if center is hard to steer to and the furthest points are easier. So on the highway whichever way the road tilts, the car follows. The car has new lower control arms, idler arm, shocks, springs, ball joints. I ordered new heavy duty steering rods, end links, rag joint, and better shocks. Which I will put in this week or next. I'm thinking there may be some play near the center link, but I KNOW there is something wrong with the power steering system somewhere.

Ben,

I purchased the Steeroids kit a while back, it's still sitting in my garage. When I finally get the frame back, and start making some progress, as in finally being able to drive that mother, I'll let you know how it is. I can tell you this, the price sucks, but you definately get what you pay for. The mounts are so thick, that even I won't be able to break these on good old Route 309. The hoses look like they belong on an Apache, extra tough, with o-rings, and the u-joints are all stainless, and beefy. The only thing you need is a pump. Very complete kit, thourough directions, with PICTURES of the whole process. Pretty idiot proof, even for me.

Alan

The original man from Nantuckett.

cool.. let me know how it goes..

Vincent, your problem is not the pump. If it was the pump it would not be easier on sharper turn. Your assist could be related to engine rpm, but not turning position.

The steering valve will give you a variable. But before you condem any power steering component, disconnect the steering power piston from the frame and turn the steering by hand with the tires in the air. You want to make sure the linkage and suspension parts are not causing the binding. This can happen with new parts.

It could also and likely be that you steering box is adjusted too tight. This is a classis symptom of a too tight box.

|UPDATED|8/3/2004 7:42:16 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Thanks ken, I will check the tightness of it and see if it may be the problem. It will have to wait day though, I had a u-joint start squeaking last night, hope it's not actually a wheel bearing. Well I will report back with wht I find.