That sounds like you're having fun with this...next thing you know you will be curing paint in the stove in the house!! Haven't used the heat freeze method in some time now..but it does work good..usually used the blue tipped wrench with an open flame on it..glad its going easy for you..have you thought of tweaking the runnout yet? That will be the final step and you'll be done! Love the stories about your dad..good Stuff!!

Well, I don't have a micrometer but, I did set my vise under the wheel and put a stiff wire up to the rotor. The driver's side was just fine. No more than a piece of paper difference as it turned.  After the Pat's game I'll get the passenger side assembled and try that out. I made a point to clean off the rust and smooth out the surface on the hub. I used a wire brush attachment on my drill.  As long as it did not warp in the grill, it should be good. I've read about the soda can shims if I need to do that. The ACDelco store only had the upgrade rotors in-stock so, I am expecting things to be good.  The hub is the questionable part of the equation.  I think. I made sure to remove any burs sticking out where the rivets were removed.

The longer it rains here the less fun this project seems to be.  I hope to get a first bleed on the system tonight and finish in the AM. 

Keith

Additional:  The passenger side rotor did not show any detectable warble runout when turned.  If I understand what I'm looking for correctly...


|UPDATED|12/18/2011 8:42:17 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

It is dark:thirty now.   The passenger's side hub, rotor, caliper and flex hose are installed.  The odd thing for me was the wheel bearing did not want to go over the axle.  I brought it inside the house and held it between my hands and then tried it and it slipped right where it should be.  I'm glad that worked out because it was packed with grease.  Are they really that tight on the axle?  And that sensitive to heat?
I never had to do any press fitting working on electrics in the AF.  We did have oil lines going to the constant speed drives that were mated to the generators but, that was all 1/2" lines with compression fittings.

I did a few draws of brake fluid through the bleed valve with my vacuum pump and reservoir system.  There is plenty of air still in the system.  That is job 1 in the AM. 

Now if it all works after bleeding!  I did get a squirt of fluid out of the brake line while I was pulling the pads and compressing the pistons to fit the pads around the rotor.  At least it didn't hit me in the face.


Still somewhat amused in the desert....in the dark.


Keith

No rain today but, the air is very damp with temps in the low 50*s.

My bleeding plan was pretty simple.  Hook up my vacuum pump and suck the brake fluid through the bleed valve on the caliper.   This one person operation has worked for just bleeding the brakes every 6 months or so.  I had the lines open to the front wheels for about a week.  The level in the master never got very low. 

Today, I did my normal set up. Hand vacuum pump with a reservoir bubble for the brake fluid to collect. Just kept getting air and brake fluid. I checked the flex to steel connection - ok. No other open lines.  I sucked several reservoir full replenishing the master front tank as I went.  So, I got out the larger setup for changing the fluid I have.  It has a much larger reservoir tank and hooks up to my compressor.  I pulled three full 16 ounce jars through the two front calipers.  I put the top back on the master and tried the pedal and it felt pretty firm. 

This is the first time I've had a brake line open but, seems like that is a lot to bleed through.  I don't have a second person until maybe tomorrow night. The car is still up on jacks but, that should not make a difference. 

Am I doing something wrong?  I'm going to pull some more through tonight b4 work.


It has been a pretty fun day today. 

Keith

Everybody has their favorite way to bleed brakes but when I had trouble bleeding mine after first having the calipers off I ordered a set of Russel Speed Bleeders and they work great. I have a pressure bleeder and even that didnt give the results I wanted. With the speed bleeders one person can bleed the brakes easily, just keep the master full. Just push the brake pedal, dont pump it up or slam it to the floor, just push it to the floor gently.  The let air and fluid out but wont let any air in.  On a vette it takes 6 instead of 4.
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed/domestic.shtml






|UPDATED|12/19/2011 6:18:02 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Sounds like you almost got it..if you a using a vacuum setup pulling fluid from the bleeder it may be pulling air thru the caliper seals..try the speed bleeders those things work good!! if you can't get help..but if you can just have someone pump them up the old way to get the last bit of air out..I put a regulator on my vacuum bleeder to knock down the pressure..that may help too...oh a regulator can be as little as a pair of vice grips on the air line!!




|UPDATED|12/19/2011 6:41:54 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

I use this at home..its a cheap tool I picked up from Matco if I remember right..12$ or so..you can make one though with a milk or water bottle and your vacuum bleeder hose..just put enough fluid in the bottom of the bottle so the hose end is submerged in brake fluid and pump away..kinda like a speed bleeder just makes for a cheap tool.

Thanks Rich and Chip.  I'll look into the speed bleeders. They will open when the pedal is pressed. I guess they come with lines or something to catch the fluid.

 I may have had the bleeder valves too loose and sucking air there.  I have tried hi and low pressure but, I'll have help tomorrow afternoon.  I'm feeling pretty good having the parts all installed. 

I've got a few more things to do before getting her off the jacks.  The wheels need a good cleaning and there is mud stuck all around the steering components I want to clean off.  I also have to look at the vacuum container for leaks. This will be a good time to do that too.  The roads are pretty muddy of late.  I hate driving her in the muddy season.

Thanks

Keith

Keith,  The speed bleeders have  special sealant on the threads which prevent them from sucking air around the threads when you use them.  Once installed, you loosen them about a half turn (they come with directions), this allows fluid to move past the seat of the bleeder, just like a regular bleeder but then the fluid encounters the one way valve which allows air and fluid to exit the bleeder into the catch bottle but when you let up on the brake pedal, it seals to prevent air from entering the bleeder.  I'm using a plastic soda bottle with a hole drilled through the cap and a piece of clear tubing which fits the bleeder nipple to catch the fluid. A short piece of bent welding rod around the neck of the bottle and a hook on the other end allows me to hang the catch bottle on any convenient spot to prevent it from spilling.  I've even bled 2 calipers at the same time with this setup.




|UPDATED|12/20/2011 5:39:39 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Well again thanks to everyone for your help.

After an interruption of 3 days of 12 hour shifts at the airport,  I got all the air out of the
new brakes and installed speed bleeders in the front to make sure all was well and make
the next time easier.

The brakes work great in the driveway (400' long) and the road out in front of the house. 
Next,  Road Test!

Eileen says she hasn't see me smile like that since before we lost our old dog at Thanksgiving.

The test drive went very well.  The brakes worked fine and no smoke from the wheel bearings. 
No pulling or dragging. I don't miss the grinding sounds from the left front.  I am very happy
with the results. You guys are really great.  I would have never tried to do this job with out
the detail and wealth of information on this site.  Thanks again!

Now, officially, having fun in the desert!

Thanks

Keith





|UPDATED|12/23/2011 6:35:30 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|