Scot very important to keep the rotor runout to .005 or less if you can. If you have access to a dial indicator use it. Chuck

The hardest part of changing the rotors is getting the caliper bolts out - they tend to be in there REALLY tight. Don't take out the bolts which hold the 2 halves of the calipers together. Also check the torque specs to make sure you get the calipers back on there tight enough. I find to compress the cylinders a C-clamp on the old pad works well. Also, I'm not sure what kind of pads were OEM for your year, but on the early sharks they had asbestos pads. The current close pads are organic. I had semi-metallic pads on my shark for a while and they drove me nuts with the squeaking! Especially if you're driving real slow, like at a car show or something. You can do it - it's not that tough really. Just read up on it before you start. You can probably find some how-to step by step on the web if you don't have manuals. But get the manuals - they're really very necessarry if you're going to work on the car yourself. ~Juliet

Guys,
Since I'm not experienced with cars, and since I have a VERY busy schedule(work 2 nite classes and g/f) i've concluded that 60$ isn't bad to have them put on, esp since I'll have the car back and in running order and not with more to do....I want to learn, but damnit I want to drive more, and right now I really need a car =) So they're putting rotors on, and I guess I'll tell him to put on brake pads as well...

Scot