Topic: Rotors
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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Do I need the Rivets? Or are they more trouble than they are worth? How do you put them in in the first place? I know the originals were put in by a BIG machine.
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Jim,
I ran into the same problem, no local shops would touch my new rotors & rivet set. Luckily there was still enough meat on the rotors for one last cut so I returned the new ones.
Maybe Bairs, VBP, Van Steel or Tyler Toys can do it, I never looked into it that far.
Good luck,
Anthony
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The rivets are not needed. They were only used to help with assy on the line. The rotors were machined on the assy line, and the rivets kept them in place.
It is a good idea to always mark/stamp your rotors, and the hubs, so you can return the rotors to the same hub, in the same orientation. If you still have the rotors riveted, it is ok.
There are places that can supply the rotors already riveted to hubs, if you wish. The process to "set" the rivets can damage the rotors, if not done correctly. It's a job best left to those with the proper equipment and skills.
It is a good idea to always mark/stamp your rotors, and the hubs, so you can return the rotors to the same hub, in the same orientation. If you still have the rotors riveted, it is ok.
There are places that can supply the rotors already riveted to hubs, if you wish. The process to "set" the rivets can damage the rotors, if not done correctly. It's a job best left to those with the proper equipment and skills.
Joel Adams
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I bolted a rear pair back on. 3/8" tap, didn't even need to drill the holes any bigger. Countersunk the holes in the rotor and used 3/8"-16 X 3/4" long FLAT head allen bolts. Maybe 1/2 hour time total labor for both sides. Just feels better to me having them attached securely. Not really necessary but................mkapp7879 2006-09-17 21:56:23
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Weren't they riveted due to the fact 68-82 Corvette has Fixed calipers and were machined on the hub as an assembly. If they have too much run-out they will have problems with "run-out pumping" .
Will installing floating calipers eliminate this problem?
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Well, yeah...dat's kinda what I said 
!
I'm sure there are aftermarket "kits" that have the floating caliper set-ups, that work just fine.
!
I'm sure there are aftermarket "kits" that have the floating caliper set-ups, that work just fine.
Joel Adams
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Floating calipers will help, but it's a bit easier to just install 0-ring seals in the calipers instead. That will also cure the problem.
BTW, are the rivets hard to get out??
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The rivets can be drilled out first using a spot drill or center drill (drills used to help start a regular drill). Be sure to start the drills as close to the center of the rivet as possible. It is easier with the rotors set up on a drill press. Use a drill about or just under the size of the studs or go up in sizes till you reach the stud size. They also can be torched out because the rivets are a lot softer metal than the rotors. I torched mine out but you must be careful to not over do the heat. Just enough to quickly melt the rivet. Direct the flame to the middle of the rivet away from the rotor.Clean up the residue and you are good to go. Remember whenever using a torch be sure there is nothing around the will support any unwanted combustion. And NEVER I repeat NEVER let a shock catch fire! They have fluid inside and will explode! Hope this helps.custom76 2006-09-22 13:41:34
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Once the rivets are off, make sure you back off the adjustment on the e-brakes in the rear. If you don't, you'll have a hard time slippin them off the studs....
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