Topic: Steeroids
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
Rucruzin,
Did you get the Steeroids package or another package? I put the steeroids in my "81 4-spd and had no problems with installation and fit (instructions were included). If it's Steeroids, the bump you feel in the steering is probably a binding in one of the u-joints in the new steering assembly. I found that the two joints and the bearing that supports the assembly have to be played with to get a bind free operation. The position of the bearing and sliding the joints up or down the splines they are on took care of the bind for me. Once done, it worked great. Also, as a last resort, you may have to move your upper steering column towards the rear. My car has a stock engine except for headers - maybe that's why you had more trouble than I did.
I installed the steriods rack two years ago on my 73. Reading the previous posts I saw alot that had problems with the u joint. Mine too was alittle tight with a bind I really was not satisfied with. So the culprit turned out to be father time "the body mounts were toast" After that little excersize all was well. With the rack, mono front leaf, and tubular a-arms the car handles great. Yeah it was a lot of cash but high tech in an old car makes them more fun to drive

WOW!! is all I can say!! The system works tremendously and as stated earlier in this thread, the car reacts "like a go cart"!!!
2 1/2 turns lock to lock and there is no resistance. Almost too easy?!?!
No bind - just a bit of clearance with the motor mount. 10 seconds worth of grinding and I was done!!!
Highly, highly recomended!!
Do I sound pleased???
Luke
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Hey Dr. Ken,
Minor clearance issue where the u joint connects to the rack. Other than that, smooth sailing. I guess I was one of the lucky ones. I had absolutely no binding issues as many of our other bretheren have mentioned. The only thing that I need to research is how to best do a DIY alignment to get me to an alignment shop about 10 miles from my house. I'm guessing there are threads that I can look at that you probably added value to in the past.
I can't wait to get home and go for another spin.
Luke
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Veteran of Operation Iraqi Freedom
101st Airborne(AirAssault!)
God Bless America
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Put a level along the side of the tires. Use a cheap protractor, and you can get a rough idea of camber. Caster is tricker. Turn the wheel all the way back and forth, and watch the tires lean in and out, and if they are fairly even the caster is not too far off. Good enough to get to a shop.
The biggest one is the toe setting. Lift the front wheels. Use a thin chalk or marker, and hold it on the tire tread. Spin the tire slowly and make a line all the way around the tire. Do both tires, then set the car down on the ground. Roll it back a forth to allow the suspension to settle. Now take a tape measure across the front of the tires, as high as you can get and keep the tape measure straight, and take a reading between the lines you made. Now do the same thing on the rear side of the tires. If the readings match, you have 0 toe. If the front is greater, it 's toe out, if the rear is greater, it's toe in. The difference between the two is total toe. Turn the tie rod adjustments to make changes.
Make sure the steering wheel is straight when you do this. And sight down the edges of the front tires, and see where your line of sight hits the rear tires. Make them even, with the wheel straight, and a very slight toe in. Perhaps 1/16 inch. You will be close. I have done this in my driveway, and been dead on when put on the alignment rack.
If you ignore camber and caster, just do the toe. That's the greatest tire wear factor, and the only one that changed installing the steeroids.

Ken,
Once again, you come to the rescue!!! Is there anything that you couldn't answer!!!!
You're awesome! What a value to have in the registry!!!!!
Many, many, many, many, many, many thanks!!!
Luke
LukesVette Homepage
Veteran of Operation Iraqi Freedom
101st Airborne(AirAssault!)
God Bless America
Support Our Troops