Topic: Suspension Bushings/NCRS
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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No one seemed interested in answering this question on Corvette Forum so lemme give you guys a try. You haven't let me down yet
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While I'm restoring the and chassis of my 1972 350/200 auto this coming winter, I will be replacing all of the suspension bushings. I am aiming for future NCRS top flight and would like to know if anyone can recommend what suspension bushing "set" I should purchase and from where? I.e., the parts should be acceptable to NCRS. I presume that the replacement bushings will have to be rubber and not polyurethane.
Thanks
Thanks
Roger
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I would think that most of the rubber bushing sets from most of the vendors would be fine. Once they are installed, it is pretty hard to tell the difference from one to another.
You really may want to try asking the same question on the NCRS TDB. There are a lot of experts there, as well as some not-so-experts like me.


Moderator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20225
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
There are some small differences in any of the replacement bushings, as far as the upper control arms go. Judges do look for this difference, but it is a small deduct, so it's really not worth worrying about. That being said, you can still get the upper and lower control arm bushings from GM(dealer), or any of the Vendors...the outcome will be the same.
The rear, trailing arm bushings can't really be seen, so they are not an issue, other than they should not be urethane.
The rear, trailing arm bushings can't really be seen, so they are not an issue, other than they should not be urethane.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Joel/Mike...
Thanks for the input
. The entire bushing set for the car is pretty expensive and I didn't want to buy the wrong thing.

Joel, my brother Phil was over in Ft. Worth talking to Chuck Anderson's brother the other day (I think you know Chuck...he runs a Corvette repair/restoration shop and is involved in NCRS). Anyway Chuck wasn't there but his brother told Phil that if I think my car has a chance at a Top Flight then I all I should do right now is to make sure it is cleaned up real nicely and get it judged before adding or changing anything on the car. What do you think?

Moderator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20225
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
I agree, Roger. It's best to get it judged before doing anything that may take it away from "original". You can stand to loose the few points on condition, but losing originality points can kill ya.
You can have a part that is brand-spankin new, but just a little different, looks-wise than the original, and you'll still lose most, if not all of the originality points. If you lose more than 85% of the originality points, the condition doesn't matter, as you'll get a full deduct on condition, because that part is not original, or not of an original configuration.
I had the '74 judged before I did any of the detail work on it...did pretty well, too. I did lose a TON of points on condition, but got almost 100% on originality. The thing is, you can't worry about a 1-2 point deduct(condition) here and there...it's the 38-40 point deducts(originality) that will get you.
So, yeah, I think I'd have to agree with Dave, and just do some light, non-invasive cleaning/detailing, and go from there.
You can have a part that is brand-spankin new, but just a little different, looks-wise than the original, and you'll still lose most, if not all of the originality points. If you lose more than 85% of the originality points, the condition doesn't matter, as you'll get a full deduct on condition, because that part is not original, or not of an original configuration.
I had the '74 judged before I did any of the detail work on it...did pretty well, too. I did lose a TON of points on condition, but got almost 100% on originality. The thing is, you can't worry about a 1-2 point deduct(condition) here and there...it's the 38-40 point deducts(originality) that will get you.

So, yeah, I think I'd have to agree with Dave, and just do some light, non-invasive cleaning/detailing, and go from there.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Hmmm Well then. I guess that is the way I will go about it. Time to start cleaning 'er up and gettin' 'er ready. She's got some surface rust underneath and a few leaks here and there.
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