I just ordered exchange Trailing Arm Assemblies (Complete) from Van Steel along with new bolts and shims.
Anything I need to know about taking them off and the install of the new ones?
Any advice much appreciated as always.
Thanks!!

Taking them off my '77 was pretty straight forward and easy.  I thought putting them back on was a little more difficult because there is not much space to get your hands in there.  I did it by myself, but I'd recommend having another set of hands available to help hold the trailing arm in place.  I'm helping to replace a frame on my cousin's '80 vette and one of his was frozen in and the bolt had to be cut with a reciprocating saw to get the trailing arm off.

I did mine about two years ago. As stated, taking them off should be easy, assuming the bolts aren't severely rusted. Putting them back on can be another story. Get the DVD that was suggest by 74-454 as it will help you sort things out much better than a manual. I found the most difficult task installing the new arms was the bolt that secures the arm to the frame. I f greased the thing and attached some fishing line through the hole in at the end of the bolt and snaked the it through the frame. PITA but it worked. VanSteel has another method with a pair of long needle nose pliers. Take your time and all will work out.

BTW, I'm just a shade tree mechanic and through advice from members of this forum I'm basically rebuilding the entire drive train. There are certainly many folks here who have many years experience. Great group of people! Good luck.

I also used the fishing line idea.  It helps line the bolt up and starts it through.  Used some pliers to work it through too.  The first one took me a little while to do, but once I had the method down the other one went quickly.

I had rust on my trailing arm bolts so they had to be cut off. Which means a saws-all would be handy. I also could not get my shock mounts to budge, so they got cut out too.

Yeah, those shock mounts can be a huge pain too.  One of mine came out after a small beating.. the other one.. not so easy. 

The looooong needle nosed pliers is the best way to re-install that bolt...unless you have VERRRRRY small hands!
The t-arm is just so bulky when trying to reinstall it, it can get frustrating. Take yer time, and be sure to mark the shims that are there now, and out them back in the same location. If you are replacing the shims with new ones, measure the old stacks, and install the same thickness stack back in the same locations.

I had my TA's rebuilt by Van Steel, they did a great job and were very helpful.  I had some non-standard parts on one of my arms and they got it all straightened out for me.  Make sure you document how the shims are placed before removing the TA's.  I few others here talked about a reciprocating saw, have one handy.  I had the paxs side bold fall right out but the drivers side was frozen.  Beating on it will only piss it off.  Get the shims out and cut the bolt with the saw.  Also, the Van Steel video has a few good tips, probably good enough to justify buying it.  One thing that helped was to put a deep socket under the arm at the frame to keep it a ride height.  This way it doesnt hang down.  I cant remember the size, Either 9/16 or 5/8.  A helping hand works too, but I did it on my own with out too much pain.  As for those shock mounts, there is a tool you can purchase for a few bucks.  It screws on to the treads and allows you tobeat the shock mount off with out screwing it up.  It worked quite well.  As for installing the arms I cant come up with too many tricks.  The car is off the frame so accessing everything is a piece of cake.  Good Luck!

Thanks For the help!!
The parts should be here in another 4-5 days and will post when all is good or not good... I will check into the DVD from Van Steel.
Thanks!